Rebuild 6.0L help
01-17-2009, 12:19 PM
#41
I called the dealership on behalf of clemsondave asking that same question. They told me the same thing at first "Have to have the VIN bla bla bla" but I got him to look up the pistons anyway through a back door route we found. The pistons are .5mm overbore, and are $173/piece if memory serves. I called them last week to ask, but clemsondave knows that from the PM's I sent him.
What I proposed clemsondave could do is sell the 317's, find a cheap set of 241's, and go with the dished OEM LQ4 pistons. The smaller chambers of the 241's would sit him at the same compression ratio as an LQ9 piston with the 317's but the 241's would make for a better tow-truck combo, I think, at least.
What I proposed clemsondave could do is sell the 317's, find a cheap set of 241's, and go with the dished OEM LQ4 pistons. The smaller chambers of the 241's would sit him at the same compression ratio as an LQ9 piston with the 317's but the 241's would make for a better tow-truck combo, I think, at least.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 01-17-2009 at 01:11 PM.
01-17-2009, 05:10 PM
#42
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Sorry, been getting dirty all day.
Keeping stock 317 heads.
Found LS2/LQ9 flat top OEM +.750mm (.030") pistons for $42/ea. You can find them by using VIN code N on either a C6 vette or something like a '03 Escalade. Sealed Power H1129CT.
Ordered the LS2 connecting rods off the ebay link on the last page. After getting them, I learned about 'broken' rods. That's about the dumbest manufacturing process I have ever heard of. Can you re-use these types of rods?
We got it out and stripped except for the crank and cam. My buddy forgot the balancer puller. We'll finish it up Mon night.
I'll post pics later, but you would not believe the carbon build up in this thing. I bet there is easily 1/16" in all the intake ports. Oil rings were frozen to the pistons.
We broke one bolt off where the EGR meets the manifold. Also the dipstick tube was frozen in the block, so it broke off too. Not too bad, I guess.
Now ---->
Oh, other cool news. I got into Pinks All Out at MIR June 19-20!!! With the vette not the truck
Keeping stock 317 heads.
Found LS2/LQ9 flat top OEM +.750mm (.030") pistons for $42/ea. You can find them by using VIN code N on either a C6 vette or something like a '03 Escalade. Sealed Power H1129CT.
Ordered the LS2 connecting rods off the ebay link on the last page. After getting them, I learned about 'broken' rods. That's about the dumbest manufacturing process I have ever heard of. Can you re-use these types of rods?
We got it out and stripped except for the crank and cam. My buddy forgot the balancer puller. We'll finish it up Mon night.
I'll post pics later, but you would not believe the carbon build up in this thing. I bet there is easily 1/16" in all the intake ports. Oil rings were frozen to the pistons.
We broke one bolt off where the EGR meets the manifold. Also the dipstick tube was frozen in the block, so it broke off too. Not too bad, I guess.
Now ---->
Oh, other cool news. I got into Pinks All Out at MIR June 19-20!!! With the vette not the truck
Last edited by clemsondave; 01-17-2009 at 06:42 PM.
01-17-2009, 06:19 PM
#43
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Pictures.....
Had a great helper for a little while:
Wonder how much HP and mpg this was costing me. Great fuel around here, huh?
Rings in good shape, but oil ring on every piston is frozen
Pretty nasty. Hopefully, will be quite a bit cleaner when she goes back in!
Had a great helper for a little while:
Wonder how much HP and mpg this was costing me. Great fuel around here, huh?
Rings in good shape, but oil ring on every piston is frozen
Pretty nasty. Hopefully, will be quite a bit cleaner when she goes back in!
01-17-2009, 07:54 PM
#44
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Either in the head, or still stuck to the deck of the block, you'll find two dowels. Take them out before you bring the parts to the machine shop and put them somewhere safe. A pliers will do fine. They are there to help locate and center the heads when you're putting them back on.
A new rebuild will help seal the motor up for sure, but an oil catch can might not be a bad idea down the road either.
An after thought, once it's running.
Did your truck have oil cooler lines coming out of the oil pan, up to the radiator?
A new rebuild will help seal the motor up for sure, but an oil catch can might not be a bad idea down the road either.
An after thought, once it's running.
Did your truck have oil cooler lines coming out of the oil pan, up to the radiator?
01-17-2009, 08:25 PM
#45
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01-26-2009, 02:32 AM
#47
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rotating kit conventional
ok, cool. Here is a kit I just found. They are not a sponsor, so I'll just list the parts.
Eagle
Chevy Street and Strip
5140 steel SIR lightweight connecting rods, std/std cast steel crank, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, Clevite rod and main bearings, and plasma moly cast iron ring sets are included.
383ci Rotating Assembly
2-piece rear main seal
4.030'' bore x 3.750'' stroke
5.700'' rod length
-18cc inverted dome pistons
Comp Ratios
10.0:1 with 58cc
9.7:1 with 64cc
8.7:1 with 76cc
$909
You're right though, I'm sure it would all start to add up too quickly.
Eagle
Chevy Street and Strip
5140 steel SIR lightweight connecting rods, std/std cast steel crank, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, Clevite rod and main bearings, and plasma moly cast iron ring sets are included.
383ci Rotating Assembly
2-piece rear main seal
4.030'' bore x 3.750'' stroke
5.700'' rod length
-18cc inverted dome pistons
Comp Ratios
10.0:1 with 58cc
9.7:1 with 64cc
8.7:1 with 76cc
$909
You're right though, I'm sure it would all start to add up too quickly.
01-26-2009, 01:34 PM
#49
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Get the block and heads back this Wed and we'll start putting it back together. This guy does amazing work. Not sure if it is all standard practice, but he takes all day to hone it. Let's it cool several times to make sure it is perfect at normal temps. Pretty cool to watch all that.
Not sure how clean the block will come out so I may paint it when we get it together. I've been hoping for a warm'er day so I can pressure wash the engine bay and paint it. With snow/ice coming tomorrow, I may not get a chance.
Not sure how clean the block will come out so I may paint it when we get it together. I've been hoping for a warm'er day so I can pressure wash the engine bay and paint it. With snow/ice coming tomorrow, I may not get a chance.
01-26-2009, 03:14 PM
#50
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It sounds like your machinist has a solid idea on how to blueprint an engine. I'm glad. I'd bet your block will come out squeaky clean.
I'm sure you know this already but it needs to be said in case you don't. When painting the block, pre-assemble the motor first without the rotating assembly as if you're ready to put it back into the truck. Cover important surfaces such as the decks by bolting the heads on with old head bolts (hand tight without gaskets), water galleys with the water pump and put the front and rear engine covers back on hand tight. Tape off anything you don't want painted, like your shiny heads. Engine Brite (silver can w/blue top) is a great product for getting your covers and intake manifold clean. Either that, or bring all pieces to the machine shop for hot tanking.
Grab a Haynes or Chilton's manual for assembly directions. You WILL need it for torque specs, order of operations and helpful hints.
I'm sure you know this already but it needs to be said in case you don't. When painting the block, pre-assemble the motor first without the rotating assembly as if you're ready to put it back into the truck. Cover important surfaces such as the decks by bolting the heads on with old head bolts (hand tight without gaskets), water galleys with the water pump and put the front and rear engine covers back on hand tight. Tape off anything you don't want painted, like your shiny heads. Engine Brite (silver can w/blue top) is a great product for getting your covers and intake manifold clean. Either that, or bring all pieces to the machine shop for hot tanking.
Grab a Haynes or Chilton's manual for assembly directions. You WILL need it for torque specs, order of operations and helpful hints.