milled heads .30, What length pushrods
 

Im hoping someone has milled their heads and knows what the correct pushrod length is im needing, Dont really want to have to buy a length checker and all that....Any help is appreciated

Heads are milled .30 std. deck height.

Wish I could help...I'm having my 317's milled .030 when I put my LQ9 together, and I bought a pushrod length checker, it was $13 at the time, I think that they're $18 now. If you're in Jersey I'll lend it to you :chug:

What lifters are you using, that makes a difference too...the new LS7 lifters have a taller cup then the original GENIII lifters...

were on the same page.. here also...

im gonna be running ls7 lifters / guides.. and my 317's are also milled .30

prob still the same 7.4

LS7 lifters ported/milled 862's...i dont mind buying a checker just thought i might save some time if someone else already knew.

Isn't the ls7 lifters shorter then the ls1 style?? I think so.. I would run the 7.35's in there.. Or get a PR checker... It is good to be dead nuts on, but the hydraulic lifter will surely take up a few thousandths in..

Stock pushrods are 7.380". So if you chop .030" off the heads you would require 7.350" pushrods. Regarding the LS7 lifters, I have no experience with those, but I've read they like shorter pushrods than stock.

The lifters are the same on the outside, but the cup that the pushrod rides on is taller. hirdlej posted pics of them a while back :nod:

M_e_a_s_u_r_e!!!

The cup in the ls7 lifter is .060 taller then the older ls1 lifter.. :D Also with a .060 preload

So it looks like its best to measure, no big deal

Here's a thread of mine that might help you out...I bumped it to the top too :cheers:

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...55#post4303755

my bro is runnin the stock length 7.400 pushrods on his 5.3 with .030 milled 706 heads on his 5.3... he had a b1 cam and now has a 232/236 .595/.601 112, both were run on the milled heads with 7.400 push rods... No probs..

If the stock replacement lifter is now the ls7, what if you go to have a lifter fixed under warr?? They are going to stick the new ones in there.. There not going to replace all the PR's too.. From a quick search it seems that diff companies say to use a diff pre load on the lifters, also guys have switched to the new style lifters and still ran the 7.4 PR's with out any issue.. I have my heads milled .020 and am running 7.4 rods, without any probs or noise.. But it would be best to MEASURE since you are going with the new lifters and a decent mill job :) Again the lifter will be able to take up the diff + or -.

this motor is going in an S10, no warranty here...i think im going to just buy the checker and be sure dont want to buy everything over again, or hurt anything

No the warranty thing was about if it was under and something happ. Even though the lifter are diff gm never said that it was mandatory to switch to a shorter one if a old(ls1) one was replaced... Like I said you it would be diff, get the checker...

I'm guessing that the LS7 lifters still keep the preload within GM's spec so they can re-use the factory pushrods. I'm sure that the General doesn't want to spend any extra dough for pushrods on warranty jobs...especially since the factory doesn't offer a shorter pr.

You make a good point in post #15...this isn't a warranty lifter replacement situation, it's a build with more variables

gonna get a pushrod checker also.. to be on the safe side... I dont want my sh1t to fail again...