shawnss

iTrader: (8)

i do have a wideband. it seems to be runing a bit lean. but whats weird about it. is if you go WOT there is nothing but black smoke rolling out the tail pipe. its stupid rich out the exhaust but the wideband is saying its lean IDK. i had it tuned for 10psi and i just turned it down to spring pressure which is like 7-8psi. just to be safe. the only time it really blows oil out is when i leave a stop light easy. if i just roll into the throttle off the line is when it smokes the worst. but if i lay into it. it black smoke like raw fuel. if im at a cruising speed like 35 to 40 and i just tap the throttle real quick it will let out a big puff of light blue/ grey smoke oil for sure. you can smell oil burning.

slowfive0

With what you posted so far, sounds like a potential injector issue. Unless you blew a gasket or something and was losing coolant, something hydrolocked that cylinder and bent the rod. You're probably pumping too much fuel into that cylinder and that caused it. I would have the injectors flowed. The injector could be dribbling or flowing more of an erratic stream vs. a nice atomized spray. Did the engine ever feel like it was missing or not running clean? If you have a cylinder misfiring (where it is basically dumping a bunch of unburned fuel and oxygen into the exhaust) your wideband will pick that up (oxygen from unburned air/fuel mixture) and will report it as a false lean condition. As you're tuning the truck, you would be dialing in more fuel to adjust which is going to further aggravate the situation. You should have been able to tell though as the vehicle would have been misfiring on cylinder 1 and running rougher. NOTE, you can lift a ring land if you run an engine way to rich. Usually, see that in higher hp combos, but I suppose its possible here and worth mentioning.

Possibly a better theory would be if injector 1 is not flowing very good and that cylinder was lean, you could have damaged #1 rings/piston (ESPECIALLY with 14psi of BOOST!!!) and due to the partially misfiring or maybe completely dead cylinder, the fuel built up and at some point hydrolocked the cylinder and bent the rod. That is probably what happened the more I think about it.

One thing I would look for is when you get the engine apart, take the rings off of the pistons. Look at the size of each ring paying attention to the top ring vs the 2nd ring (normally, they should be similar in circumference) for #1 cylinder and compare to the other normal cylinders. (Hope that made sense---lol). If that cylinder was extremely lean or detonating, that would take the tension out of cylinder number 1 rings and they won't be as big in circumference as the other good rings. NOTE: Usually, you will see this on the top ring mostly as it is subjected to the majority of the heat of combustion.

Good luck.

A Low Dime

iTrader: (13)

8psi on a 6.0 with 42lbers? That doesnt sound right at all, those 42s are way too small I would think.

14psi on a 6.0 with 42lbers is way to small for sure.

slowfive0

Yep, this is due to the unburned oxygen (from the dead or weak cylinder) getting picked up by the wideband and reading lean. The wideband is basically referencing oxygen content in the exhaust vs. the outside atmosphere. It doesn't look at fuel, only oxygen so if you're putting more oxygen into the exhaust due to the misfire, it will read lean (assuming it was reading correctly before). You can also have this same false lean condition from exhaust leaks (header flange, cracked header or even the flange at the header to the exhaust pipe if the sensor is close to it (even if it is upstream a couple of inches).

shawnss

iTrader: (8)

ok thanks for the info. this is all a learning process for me. i have been messing with motor sense i was 16 but never FI. these last few years i have learned a ton of info. at this point im done with stock motors and boost. not that you can't hurt a forged motor but they take a little more abuse. i dont tune my own stuff everything has been tuned by allen at nelson. he does a great job. i dont feel that any of my engine troubles are do to allen. i think its just parts failing. the downfall to living in montana is there is not one tuner around here. so this winter i will be doing a full build from top to bottom. i already have the bottom end picked out. i will be getting new injectors. im pretty sure these have been starving for awhile and its time to run some bigger injectors for the new power plant.

heres what i picked up a few months back

shawnss

iTrader: (8)

yeah these are the injectors that Detroit speedworks sent with the turbo kit. Im pretty sure they have been working hard for awhile. its time for a upgrade. im just glad the motor held off all summer before giving me any real troubles. now i have all winter to get her up and running again.

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, give us all the info, what gauges you have, fuel system setup, timing Ect.

shawnss

iTrader: (8)

well for gauges im running autometer boost, fuel pressure and a pyro. for my wideband im running the innovative lc-1 with the xd-16 gauge with. for a fuel system im running one in tank walbro 255. im not sure what timing allen has me setup for.

my over all plans is to have a good running street truck. only time i would go to the track is once or twice a year to see what numbers i lay down. im planning on upgrading to a pt88 or a turbo that will support my needs. i really would like to run mid 11s. but i dont know what Hp levels i need to be at to do that with a heavy truck 5700lbs. as for a cam id like something that had a bit of a lope. not saying i want it to sound like a drag car just something that sounds mean. im planning on running the twin walbros in the tank. for a intake im leaning towards the edelbrock pro flo xt. im really at a lose for what to do with the top end. as in heads and cam. i have the stock 317 heads. im thinking i just might work them over. if i leave my stock heads where the are now i should be right at 9:2:1 for compression. any input would be great im pretty much lost on my top end. im building a 370. im running wiseco -11 cc dished pistons and the callies h beam rods i got all my bearing and total seal rings. everything will be arp from top to bottom. thanks for any help. this is a learning curve for me. i have read so many other builds so far. but the problem is everybodys setup is so different. i dont want to choose the wrong parts and have nothing work together well.

slowfive0

Not saying anything was wrong with the tune. I bet you have a bad/clogged injector on #1 cylinder that is causing your woes. It sounds like you may need bigger injectors anyways to meet your future goals so you should be able to resolve your problem with the new engine/injector size.

For reference, I'm running 12.20's at 110 at 5500lb race weight with 42lb (lightning green top) injectors. My setup also is returnless. I do drop some fuel pressure at the top of 3rd (down to about 50-52psi), but I'm compensating in the tune for this so I never get lean or anything. I do get to 100%+ duty cycle though so I'm maxed out unless I go to a return style system, methanol injection or bigger injectors. Not saying 42's are enough for your level, but I do think they were plenty sufficient and not the cause (their size/rating) of your failures. Just my .02.

Oh, nice parts! Should be a nice running setup when you get it done. I'll be watching the build section Take care.

Sinr98

iTrader: (6)

Also a weak coil pack, broken or corroded wire (s) can also be a cause of this. You won't throw a code if the tuner has either disabled the misfire dtc, or upped the amount of recorded misfires to throw one.
I do think it's an injector issue also, but I would check the coil and wiring just to be certain it don't happen to the next motor too.