Help me plan out my engine.
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Help me plan out my engine.
Hey everyone I don't want to waste any time so lets get to it. I have a 2000 Silverado with that powerhouse of a 4.8 engine. It has 200k on the clock now and knocks, ticks and has a 0-60 of 20 minutes.
So what I am wanting to do is rebuild the engine but beef it up a little. I am sick of getting beat by everything with an engine. I want to keep the stock block. Anyone know where you can get super cheap 5.3 crank and rods? I know a 6.0 MIGHT be cheaper and more power but I am keeping the stock drivetrain to this car from front to back.
Goals of the build:
Just a good dependable DD with a bit more power
Cheap as possible (If stock heads work but ported or shaved good,Stock pistons good)
350HP/Some more low end tq to help with MPG
Compression ratio pushing premium to the limit. What would that be?
AT LEAST 20MPG but more than likely 25+
Very very quiet. I don't want to know the engine is on quiet. Exhaust as quiet as possible.
No piston slap. I have dealt with it for years. Makes it sound sooo cheap.
No vibrations (Is a aftermarket balancer better or will the stock work)
So what I have been digging up so far is the Mahle set of pistions, rings, and all that good stuff. I can find it for 609 on fleabay. They are the 4032 Forged ones so they "should" be quiet with no piston slap. Any better deals anywhere? Are them just a waste of money for what I plan on doing? I know LS7 Lifters, LS2 Timing set, ARP Bolts and them things.
My main questions are:
What kind cam should one use? For now it will be stockish with maybe a 3.800 bore. Because it is a 4.8 I want more low end tq.
What brands of bearings are good for the main and cam and rod?
Should I upgrade the oil pump? Does the timing chain really make a difference or will a cheaper one work?
What kind of rocker arms/push rods are good price:performance ratio?
What on gods earth should I do about heads and springs and valves and that fun world? I was looking into the TBSS or NNBS intake and throttle body if I can find it cheap enough.
Is there anything I am missing here haha?
Remember I am only really needing it to handle the amount of power I am pushing to it, I have no use for super high end things but I don't want trash where I have to worry about having fun either. I am taking this truck on a 10k trip this summer and want 0 issues. What would you do if this were you and these were your goals. If there is anything here that wouldn't work let me know because this is going to be my first dive into engine building. My final thing is to remember I am on a very strict budget.
So what I am wanting to do is rebuild the engine but beef it up a little. I am sick of getting beat by everything with an engine. I want to keep the stock block. Anyone know where you can get super cheap 5.3 crank and rods? I know a 6.0 MIGHT be cheaper and more power but I am keeping the stock drivetrain to this car from front to back.
Goals of the build:
Just a good dependable DD with a bit more power
Cheap as possible (If stock heads work but ported or shaved good,Stock pistons good)
350HP/Some more low end tq to help with MPG
Compression ratio pushing premium to the limit. What would that be?
AT LEAST 20MPG but more than likely 25+
Very very quiet. I don't want to know the engine is on quiet. Exhaust as quiet as possible.
No piston slap. I have dealt with it for years. Makes it sound sooo cheap.
No vibrations (Is a aftermarket balancer better or will the stock work)
So what I have been digging up so far is the Mahle set of pistions, rings, and all that good stuff. I can find it for 609 on fleabay. They are the 4032 Forged ones so they "should" be quiet with no piston slap. Any better deals anywhere? Are them just a waste of money for what I plan on doing? I know LS7 Lifters, LS2 Timing set, ARP Bolts and them things.
My main questions are:
What kind cam should one use? For now it will be stockish with maybe a 3.800 bore. Because it is a 4.8 I want more low end tq.
What brands of bearings are good for the main and cam and rod?
Should I upgrade the oil pump? Does the timing chain really make a difference or will a cheaper one work?
What kind of rocker arms/push rods are good price:performance ratio?
What on gods earth should I do about heads and springs and valves and that fun world? I was looking into the TBSS or NNBS intake and throttle body if I can find it cheap enough.
Is there anything I am missing here haha?
Remember I am only really needing it to handle the amount of power I am pushing to it, I have no use for super high end things but I don't want trash where I have to worry about having fun either. I am taking this truck on a 10k trip this summer and want 0 issues. What would you do if this were you and these were your goals. If there is anything here that wouldn't work let me know because this is going to be my first dive into engine building. My final thing is to remember I am on a very strict budget.
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
This stuff ain't cheap but maybe consider boring it and throwing a 5.7 crank, some 5.7 pistons in it and leaving the bottom end as is (if it's in decent shape). Find a set of 243 heads, some dual springs and go with the Trucker cam and a good tune. Put on a set of Ebay Long tubes and you should have some nice bottom end. The tune swap would be a piece of cake and the whole thing would be cheap, aside from the machining work.
#4
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Is $285 a good price for the 5.3 crank with rod and crank bearings? It is a "Remanufactured" crank so used. Also I saw a set of 243 heads for $300 to the door. These are all just ebay prices but are they decent? Anywhere to get better deals? Also what brand piston would you use for this? Finally, I know its a lot of nonsense questions for you guys, but do I need new connecting rods to go with say the 5.3 crank and ls1 pistons?
What kind of power did they end up making? I am not expecting any miracles here but a decent boost would be pretty cool.
What kind of power did they end up making? I am not expecting any miracles here but a decent boost would be pretty cool.
#6
It would probably be easier just to go get a 5.3L from a junk yard for $500 then trying to by the crank and everything to build.
Cheapest route
5.3L lowish miles under 100K
New lifters, timing chaing, pushrods, cam
cam around 212/218 duration for low end tq
headers with Big Grandpa muffler
9.5 compression is around the highest to run 87
once you get close to 10.1 you will need premium in order to keep the timing advanced
Another idea put 4.8 pistons in a 5.3L and 243 heads to be around 9.9 compression.
The truck 862/706 heads make more low end power than 243s for dd use so if your on a budget idk if 243s are really worth the power for the $$$
just my .02
Cheapest route
5.3L lowish miles under 100K
New lifters, timing chaing, pushrods, cam
cam around 212/218 duration for low end tq
headers with Big Grandpa muffler
9.5 compression is around the highest to run 87
once you get close to 10.1 you will need premium in order to keep the timing advanced
Another idea put 4.8 pistons in a 5.3L and 243 heads to be around 9.9 compression.
The truck 862/706 heads make more low end power than 243s for dd use so if your on a budget idk if 243s are really worth the power for the $$$
just my .02
#7
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I guess I should specify my budget. I want to be around 1500 for everything. It could go a little more or a little less.
I would rather build up my 4.8 instead. It is pretty expensive to get a 5.3 with low miles here in Northern Michigan. Everyone and their brother drives 60 miles a day. That and I think being able to say it's the stock block is kind of cool.
I think you are right about the 862/706 heads. They yield a higher compression ratio HOWEVER they don't flow as much. So what are your thoughts about just having them ported to flow more? Then they can flow a little more and you get the higher C/R too.
Personally I would like to push premium to the limits with the compression ratio. I don't plan on being able to run 87 octane. That is okay because the higher ratio means more MPG and better efficiency and more power.
I would rather build up my 4.8 instead. It is pretty expensive to get a 5.3 with low miles here in Northern Michigan. Everyone and their brother drives 60 miles a day. That and I think being able to say it's the stock block is kind of cool.
I think you are right about the 862/706 heads. They yield a higher compression ratio HOWEVER they don't flow as much. So what are your thoughts about just having them ported to flow more? Then they can flow a little more and you get the higher C/R too.
Personally I would like to push premium to the limits with the compression ratio. I don't plan on being able to run 87 octane. That is okay because the higher ratio means more MPG and better efficiency and more power.
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#9
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
#10
Baltimore Whore
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Im a idiot and didn't even see your post before mine.
You could buy a 5.3 short end used for less then having your 4.8 freshened up with a 5.3 crank and pistons. Maybe add new rings to it. Find a set of 799 or 243 heads, cleaned them up have them milled a little bit and possibly get a valve job done. Add a new cam, lifters PR's, have a stout 5.3 that is in the 400 hp range for cheap.. If money allows add a NNBS or TBSS intake to it..
You could buy a 5.3 short end used for less then having your 4.8 freshened up with a 5.3 crank and pistons. Maybe add new rings to it. Find a set of 799 or 243 heads, cleaned them up have them milled a little bit and possibly get a valve job done. Add a new cam, lifters PR's, have a stout 5.3 that is in the 400 hp range for cheap.. If money allows add a NNBS or TBSS intake to it..