Suburban2500

Heads I'm looking at are 853s, and they are a very good deal. Do they have the same cracking problem. It looks like valve cover is the same style as stock on these too.

Seems like it would give me a decent but not extreme compression bump and would work with a stroker. Might need some eventual porting.

bobfig

a quick google is the 853 heads aren't worth your time. just go with the 317 if you are going to do a stroker.

as for the calculator use this http://www.bgsoflex.com/cr.html

Suburban2500

Would be even less worth my time other than weight savings. Stroker is an eventually project. Want something that will work well in the meantime while cleaning up the engine. I see that the flow is better with my current heads, but will the compression boost offset that?

bobfig

i have no idea if the higher compression can out way the lower flow but to me that would be taking a step back.

you wanted to keep using 87oct gas and yet you still want to up the compression. you need to choose one or the other.

if you want the compression then get some 799 heads and be done with it.

gamble686

iTrader: (3)

I feel like we are starting to beat our heads against the wall on this one. You need either 317s to keep compression equal. 243/799 if you want to bump compression.

GRRR65GTO

If you want more power you really just gotta bite the bullet and run 93. Ill bet you'd feel a decent difference in that thing with just a 93 tune with the rest stock.

Like said above since you want to stay budgeted get 317s which like every 2500 6.0 came with or the 243/799 that'll bump your compression

SlowDude

iTrader: (4)

Call TEA. They have a really great set of heads. I have them on my 6.0 and love them. Compression is right at 11.75 to 1 and 93 super all the way. Your 2nd cam choice is really close to my EPS cam and I have been happy with it but just bought a larger cam from Geoff waiting to go in. 3000 - 3400 stall and set of gears and you are ready to rock my friend. Good luck!

Suburban2500

I've got no problem running 93 especially with these gas prices. My job and lifestyle take me to places where I don't always have the option to though and would like to still be able to fill up without worrying about detonation.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

You want torque, so you're going to have to get compression somewhere. If your budget is tighter than a gnats ***, get some used 706 5.3 heads, mill them about .030 and run them with a camshaft no bigger than 216 duration. Small primary headers and 2.5" exhaust or just a good 3" single is all it would ever need. I've put a similar combo in a friends 1500HD and he's got probably 60K miles on it and tows a camper and a very heavy bass boat on a regular basis and loves it. He also has 4.10's and 33" A/T's

chevy1224

iTrader: (1)

I went through the same dilemma a couple years back. I have a 5700lb truck. Started with SLP intake, long tube headers to true dual flowmaster 40s with x-pipe, electric fans and 93octane tune from vengeance. I was not too impressed with only bolt-ons, so now im in the middle of a rebuild.

Bored .030 to 370ci, Ported 243s with oversized valves, Custom spec 212/216 .55x cam on 114 for excellent low end. I wanted to ensure longevity (100k+), so I opted for LS6 springs and a cam that would accommodate. Hoping with .041 gasket to hit 10.5-10.8 compression. Should be good for 400+ at the crank. Most expensive part is short block rebuild, easy for you since you have a good bottom end. Probably a good $3000 will do cam, heads and bolt-ons.

The bolt-ons will not do a lot by themselves, but if you do heads and cam they will all shine together. I would not do one without the other either way is what I am trying to say. If you do bolt-ons you will be out 1k and not satisfied. If you do heads cam 2k and not max gains. Together they work best. Finally, those smaller cams are perfect for torque, but I would have Martin @ tick performance spec you a custom one for $40 more. Much better results. Hope this helps.