INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Forced Induction Stroker- What Displacement???

Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:29 PM
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Arrow Forced Induction Stroker- What Displacement???

Well, I'm officially hooked. Some of you may remember that I recently had an STS kit installed on my Vmax LQ9. At 9psi, it's like adrenalin being directly injected into your arteries each time you hit the accelerator.
That being said, I know it's only a matter of time until I'll need a stroker. An FLT LVL 4 transmission is already in the immediate plans. I know most of the "stroker" talk around here is tied to the number 408, but before I dove in that direction, I wanted your opinion based on what I'm after:
My truck is used daily, and by that I mean the truck sees 400 miles a week. I want an engine that has excellent drivability, a smooth idle (no noticeable lope), minimal valvetrain noise, and the ability to handle ~15psi on an irregular basis. Also, being that I burn up so many miles a day, an engine with a sane level of fuel consumption is definitely desirable. The truck will see a drag strip only 3 or 4 times a year; the rest being street use.

I realize that there is not one perfect solution, being that I'm after a "Jack of All Trades" type engine but what displacement/setup would meet my needs most closely? I'm willing to spend up to $9000, and want to use quality components.

Thanks!!

Ross

Last edited by 365ZUM; Feb 1, 2007 at 08:46 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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You could use your stock crank and go with forged rods and pistons (cheapest option) and still hold 800hp. Or fully forged with a 4" stroke crank and have a 402. Hope this helps.

Eric
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DeviousSilverado
You could use your stock crank and go with forged rods and pistons (cheapest option) and still hold 800hp. Or fully forged with a 4" stroke crank and have a 402. Hope this helps.

Eric


I daily drive mine, and can't really imagine the need for a stroker on top. Get a good set of rods and pistons. And you can make as much power as you probably need. With ARP bolts of course. Also, I would imagine you would want a level 5 not 4 for your level of power. But FLT could say for sure.

BTW I get around 18mpg on the highway.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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If you go up to a 408 it will take more gas for that many cubes to run. A 370 would be perfect for the 67. Mine was right at 600 rwhp at 12 psi on a 370.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys.

So with a forged 370, there would be no need for a forged crank? Being that I drive 99% of the time on the street, would the extra torque of the 402/8 be desireable, or not enough to make a difference?

Finally, what makes a 377, and would this be a good compromise?

Thanks again!
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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An FLT LVL 4 transmission is already in the immediate plans
You might re-consider and go level 5 or to a 4L80e if your going to go big .
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by trever1t
You might re-consider and go level 5 or to a 4L80e if your going to go big .
Sorry guys, I meant an FLT LVL4 4L80e
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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When it comes time for my new vehicle/motor, I'll likely be getting a forged 346 with a KB 2.6L mounted on top. That should hold the boost and give me what I want for mileage. More cubes, more fuel consumed at cruising speeds.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Why would you back down on cubes? Going from 364 to 346? I guess wouldnt be that much diff.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadrubi
Why would you back down on cubes? Going from 364 to 346? I guess wouldnt be that much diff.
Probably fuel mileage. just not sure how much better .3 of a liter makes. I do know that my 6.0 sucks lots of gas.
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