Building a SBC
#21
While mocking up the crank in the block and measuring all of the different depths, clearances, and gears involved in the geardrive. I discovered the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel would interfere with the geardrive idler gears.
My solution was to take a couple valve spring shims notched for the crank keyway and space the reluctor wheel from the crank timing gear by .120" that would give the clearance necessary for the idler gears to rely on the timing cover to keep from excessively walking into the reluctor wheel. I do intend to re-enforce the plastic vortec timing cover with a small stainless steel sheild riveted to the inside of the cover.
My solution was to take a couple valve spring shims notched for the crank keyway and space the reluctor wheel from the crank timing gear by .120" that would give the clearance necessary for the idler gears to rely on the timing cover to keep from excessively walking into the reluctor wheel. I do intend to re-enforce the plastic vortec timing cover with a small stainless steel sheild riveted to the inside of the cover.
#22
#23
I assembled the short block.




Check out how far down the flat top pistons sit in the cyl, .004" and from everything I've read they are supposed to sit .018" - .020" I might need to rethink milling my heads.

Just as I was torqueing the last rod cap bolt the 3000 stall converter arrived, and it doesn't mate up to the flexplate that the same company had sent me last week.

Apparently the TC is correct for my application, however the flexplate isn't. The flex is for a 88 astro, good thing I had it balanced with my rotating assembly.
The company says they are un-able to make a stall converter that will work with my current flex... and instead I'll need to have the correct flexplate for my app.
The balancing shop says they can't balance the flexplate alone and will need my crank again...
So I pulled the rod caps, slide out the pistons, pulled the main caps and have the crank out.
I'm not pissed off, there would be no point... at least I've got nothing but time. And can still have this engine finished by the end of august
because I am using and older block with vortec accessories, I need to plug the coolant
bypass in the block.

Cheers ~Mykk




Check out how far down the flat top pistons sit in the cyl, .004" and from everything I've read they are supposed to sit .018" - .020" I might need to rethink milling my heads.

Just as I was torqueing the last rod cap bolt the 3000 stall converter arrived, and it doesn't mate up to the flexplate that the same company had sent me last week.

Apparently the TC is correct for my application, however the flexplate isn't. The flex is for a 88 astro, good thing I had it balanced with my rotating assembly.
The company says they are un-able to make a stall converter that will work with my current flex... and instead I'll need to have the correct flexplate for my app.
The balancing shop says they can't balance the flexplate alone and will need my crank again...
So I pulled the rod caps, slide out the pistons, pulled the main caps and have the crank out.
I'm not pissed off, there would be no point... at least I've got nothing but time. And can still have this engine finished by the end of august
because I am using and older block with vortec accessories, I need to plug the coolant
bypass in the block.

Cheers ~Mykk
Last edited by 04SilveradoMykk; Aug 11, 2008 at 06:01 PM.
#24
The roller lifters, retainers & cage arrived today. As well as the valve covers, although I don't have the heads back yet.

Here's a cool trick for ya with valve covers.
Plain ball milled covers.

Paint over the top of the cover. In any color, I chose black because my block & heads are black... but you could do your engine color. Red, chevy orange, blue..etc.

Than take a few brakcleen soaked shop rags and rub off the paint on the cover, and the recessed parts of the cover remain.

Cheers ~Mykk

Here's a cool trick for ya with valve covers.
Plain ball milled covers.

Paint over the top of the cover. In any color, I chose black because my block & heads are black... but you could do your engine color. Red, chevy orange, blue..etc.

Than take a few brakcleen soaked shop rags and rub off the paint on the cover, and the recessed parts of the cover remain.

Cheers ~Mykk
#26
The crank came back this afternoon. I got the shortblock buttoned up again.

And I got the geardrive & CKPS reluctor wheel to all fit behind that timing cover.
I made a plate so the geardrive idler won't be wearing away the plastic




I got the geardrive to sit between the block & timing cover without hitting the reluctor wheel with .020" to spare.

the reluctor wheel did get moved forward a bit, but enough to still get read by the CKPS

I'll be getting the heads back tomorrow and will hopefully have that work done and the heads bolted on by the end of next week
Cheers ~Mykk

And I got the geardrive & CKPS reluctor wheel to all fit behind that timing cover.
I made a plate so the geardrive idler won't be wearing away the plastic




I got the geardrive to sit between the block & timing cover without hitting the reluctor wheel with .020" to spare.

the reluctor wheel did get moved forward a bit, but enough to still get read by the CKPS

I'll be getting the heads back tomorrow and will hopefully have that work done and the heads bolted on by the end of next week
Cheers ~Mykk
#28
The heads just got back. Of course the first I did was paint them.... but now I need to get going on the gasket match work.

You know me, I mocked up the engine wit the VC's & induction

I am pleased with my choice of valve covers, they are handsom with the fuel injection, not over the top.

The Comp Hi-Tech pushrods were just droped off. That was the last hard part I was waiting for.

Cheers ~Mykk

You know me, I mocked up the engine wit the VC's & induction

I am pleased with my choice of valve covers, they are handsom with the fuel injection, not over the top.

The Comp Hi-Tech pushrods were just droped off. That was the last hard part I was waiting for.

Cheers ~Mykk
#30


