Best parts for FI forged build?
Apr 15, 2008 | 09:35 PM
#11
A bike too?!? She's gonna kill ya, start sweet talkin her now before the credit cards come due.
Realistically, how much $ u thinkin on motor only?
Apr 16, 2008 | 05:41 AM
#12
Sounds like a nice build. If you're buyin an engine, & turbo setup, just plan now on blowin your budget, especially since you're not puttin junk parts in. A bike too?!? She's gonna kill ya, start sweet talkin her now before the credit cards come due. Realistically, how much $ u thinkin on motor only?
A bike too?!? She's gonna kill ya, start sweet talkin her now before the credit cards come due. Realistically, how much $ u thinkin on motor only?What I already have done....
Base STS Kit
42lb Injectors
7-8 Nelson Tunes
Eaton Posi Rear
Walbro In-line pump
Gauges
Intercooler(not installed)
LS1 efans
Built 4l60E(stocker went south after 1.5 months at 5psi
)Misc hose, wiring, clamps, fittings, I know I missed a lot but....
Last edited by TG02Z71; Apr 16, 2008 at 06:32 PM. Reason: more spelling......
Apr 16, 2008 | 02:57 PM
#13
[QUOTE=TG02Z71;3897568] 5.3l to 5.7l forged build for 10-15 psi daily driven vehicle, not daily driven but capable. Not on a tight budget but don't want to skimp or break the bank. 317 or 243 heads, going to want about 9.5 compression ratio.
Brand and reason why the choice, looking for opinions with solid experience of use or knowledge of performance and price.
Looking for advise so I can make some informed decisions.
[QUOTE]
I can't give u working experience only my comments,...for now.
I like to build overkill-style. I want my stuff to stay together & u sound the same way. ****, by the time I get parts for 1 generation, GM comes out w/ another GEN., new & improved. I've got parts for Gen.1, L98, LT1, & now the 5.3L. I like Thunder's thinking, but I'll still add my .02. I buy quality, & I want it made here too.
If I'm buying a kit, Lunati or Callies.
Crank - stock, Lunati, or Callies.
Rods - L, Oliver, Crower, C&A, Howards.
Pistons - see Thunder's list. Add in Mahle, SRP, CP. JE seems to be the hi comp.ratio stuff while SRP is intended more for DD(read that as lower C/R).
Pushrods - Comp or Trend
Rockers - stk, Comp, or Jesel
Springs - agreed. I like Comp
Rings - good ones.
Heads - Comment: What the ...is IIRC?
Gaskets - stk or Cometic
Fasteners - see Thunders' list.
Flexplate - stk or SFI-approved for cheap insurance( track friendly too)
Also, u building or do u have a builder in mind? If u, build as u wish. A builder may have their own parts preference. I'll balance my needs w/ wallet, somewhat.
Good luck!
Brand and reason why the choice, looking for opinions with solid experience of use or knowledge of performance and price.
Looking for advise so I can make some informed decisions.
[QUOTE]
Don't forget to spec out rings too.
I'm assuming you're going to use the stock crank. So....you'll need all new bearings, which are relatively cheap. Pistons - there are several good brands. Wiseco, Probe, Diamond, JE, blah blah blah....depends on what dish size you're looking at. All of the major piston companies should make LS1 pistons. Rex put Wiseco in my 408 but likes to use Probe.
Rods - I decided to run Callies Compstar rods in my truck. They seemed to be the best forged rod for the price when I got them. Things might have changed though. Lots to choose from there too, and all are probably good quality.
Pushrods - hardened is hardened. Just find the brand that is the cheapest.
Rings - Stay away from gapless. That's all I have to say.
Heads - a ported set of 317's would be great for FI. 243's and 317's flow about the same IIRC, but the 317's have a much bigger chamber and are generally looked at as being more FI friendly.
Gaskets - stock
Fasteners - ARP or Katech
Stock rockers are fine
Stock flexplate is fine
Dual springs - don't really think it matter much as long as you go with a reputable company.
I'm assuming you're going to use the stock crank. So....you'll need all new bearings, which are relatively cheap. Pistons - there are several good brands. Wiseco, Probe, Diamond, JE, blah blah blah....depends on what dish size you're looking at. All of the major piston companies should make LS1 pistons. Rex put Wiseco in my 408 but likes to use Probe.
Rods - I decided to run Callies Compstar rods in my truck. They seemed to be the best forged rod for the price when I got them. Things might have changed though. Lots to choose from there too, and all are probably good quality.
Pushrods - hardened is hardened. Just find the brand that is the cheapest.
Rings - Stay away from gapless. That's all I have to say.
Heads - a ported set of 317's would be great for FI. 243's and 317's flow about the same IIRC, but the 317's have a much bigger chamber and are generally looked at as being more FI friendly.
Gaskets - stock
Fasteners - ARP or Katech
Stock rockers are fine
Stock flexplate is fine
Dual springs - don't really think it matter much as long as you go with a reputable company.
If I'm buying a kit, Lunati or Callies.
Crank - stock, Lunati, or Callies.
Rods - L, Oliver, Crower, C&A, Howards.
Pistons - see Thunder's list. Add in Mahle, SRP, CP. JE seems to be the hi comp.ratio stuff while SRP is intended more for DD(read that as lower C/R).
Pushrods - Comp or Trend
Rockers - stk, Comp, or Jesel
Springs - agreed. I like Comp
Rings - good ones.
Heads - Comment: What the ...is IIRC?
Gaskets - stk or Cometic
Fasteners - see Thunders' list.
Flexplate - stk or SFI-approved for cheap insurance( track friendly too)
Also, u building or do u have a builder in mind? If u, build as u wish. A builder may have their own parts preference. I'll balance my needs w/ wallet, somewhat.
Good luck!
Last edited by fastnblu; Apr 16, 2008 at 03:11 PM.
Apr 16, 2008 | 10:04 PM
#16
Crank: Stock
Rods: Eagle H-Beams
Bearings: Clevite77
Pistons: Mahle
Rings: Moly (I think mine were Total Seals, don't remember)
Balancer: ATI Superdamper
Fasteners, head studs, rod bolts, main caps: ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts (comes with Eagle Rods), ARP Main Studs
Pushrods: Custom length COMP
Valve Springs: COMP
Rockers(stock?): Crane Gold Race 1.8
Cam: COMP
Lifters: Stock
Heads: Stock 5.3 ported with bigger intake valves
Flex Plate: Stock
This is pretty much the exact combo I am running right now with pretty decent results. I beat on it pretty hard and it is holding up very well. Its seen 7500 rpm more than a couple times. With the procharger it doesn't make any low-end torque but the mid-range and top-end are very strong. My truck has trapped 119.xx mph in the quarter with the stock 4 inch blower pulley. Good luck with your build, let me know if you have any other questions.
Rods: Eagle H-Beams
Bearings: Clevite77
Pistons: Mahle
Rings: Moly (I think mine were Total Seals, don't remember)
Balancer: ATI Superdamper
Fasteners, head studs, rod bolts, main caps: ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts (comes with Eagle Rods), ARP Main Studs
Pushrods: Custom length COMP
Valve Springs: COMP
Rockers(stock?): Crane Gold Race 1.8
Cam: COMP
Lifters: Stock
Heads: Stock 5.3 ported with bigger intake valves
Flex Plate: Stock
This is pretty much the exact combo I am running right now with pretty decent results. I beat on it pretty hard and it is holding up very well. Its seen 7500 rpm more than a couple times. With the procharger it doesn't make any low-end torque but the mid-range and top-end are very strong. My truck has trapped 119.xx mph in the quarter with the stock 4 inch blower pulley. Good luck with your build, let me know if you have any other questions.
Apr 17, 2008 | 05:33 AM
#18
Thanks.
Apr 17, 2008 | 04:25 PM
#20
I just found a thread on tech and it said they charge like 200 for the upgrade. With that you should just buy the harland sharp rockers and be done with it. That way you have a full roller rocker.