The baby cam thread
 

Admittedly, I don't have a whole lot of experience with small cams. I've always used, recommended and built with cams in the mid 220's all the way up to the 250's duration @ .050". I am starting to gather parts for the AFM delete on my 2007 and a cam swap will be one, gears and converter will happen as well.

I'd like to compile everyone's experiences with small cams in the 220 and below range. I know the Isky 212 and Comp HR265 are both popular and effective, but what else? I've considered a custom grind for my setup but honestly don't think this truck warrants that much thought and BS LOL, it's my wife's DD.

Please list the truck/engine/converter/gears/tire setup yore running with these camshafts and as much information as possible about powerband, towing etc that you can include. I want something with a tiny bit of sound, good low/mid power and easy tuning/driving. It'll have a 3000 stall and 4.10's turning 33x12.50x20's they're pretty heavy, aside from being tall... Anyway, let's hear what you've got...

Mine is just over what your wanting but i really really like it. You can tell it has a cam in it when it is idling. Down low is pretty damn good! A 3200 converter is perfect for it. I have had 3 different converters with it. The cheap circled 278mm 3200 was perfect. It flashed right to the sweet spot.

In my 4.8 i had a FTI 214/220 108+4. That was a damn nice cam for the 4.8. Had really good low end and pulled up to 6700. That cam would definitely talk to you for how small it was.

I have also had a 220/220 114+4 and 222/224 112+4

Given your criteria I dont think youre going to find much difference between the normal small cams. Im planning on going with something around the 212 area for my heavy turd, need to keep tq up in the low rpms to keep some gas mileage.

I did think about your 214/220 cam.... A custom grind isn't out of the question. I just don't want anything crazy, it's staying with all stock exhaust minus the muffler. I'd like to run some type of OEM valve springs just for noise and reliability. Doesn't hurt they're cheap too...

The power on the 214/220 cam on like a freight train in the upper rpms. The HP curve looked like a huge step.

Power should come in a little sooner in the 5.3 vs the 4.8, everything else being equal. I wouldn't mind a little bit of lope, but if it's too much she'll hate it for sure.

Honestly, if this year didn't have issues with chewed up cams, I wouldn't even mess with it. But if I'm going that far into it, I might as well do it. I'll be pulling the engine out of the truck anyway. It's getting new head gaskets, bolts, lifters, oil pump, timing set, tensioner, the works.... When it goes back together, I don't wanna mess with it again. I was ki da hoping they'd shit the bed under warranty, but it ran out in July and magically the noise is just now getting a little worse. :eyes: figures...

Hell, I've even considered an LS6 cam for it....

Do NOT get an LS6 cam. Theyre real close the gt2-3 cam I had in my LQ4, that thing was a dog down low. Keep the split narrow and the LSA down to keep low and mid range tq.

I'm running the 216/220 low lift (.532/.525). Give good pull all the way throught the RPM range, stock stall friendly if you're wanting to go that route. I decided to match it to a 3200.

At highway cruise speed a 5.3 only makes about 200ftlb torque, as 1slowz71 said pick a cam based on low end torque and not one that makes peak hp on a dyno chart.

sub'd for additional info for mine.

i don't know much about cam just get the comp cam 216/224 568 lift, under drive pulley, and the intake ls9 90mm' monster shift kit electric fans full exhaust and sounds reall good

i have a small cam in my garage i'll give you. stocker out of a Lq9 lol. doesnt someone have a 212/218 cam off the shelf? on a 112 LSA you should still be able to tune out any chop that it might have.

This is a good cam, can run with no tune if you choose. When tuned the cam sound can only be picked up by gear heads. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30602001

Is the price correct on that thing?!

Dooo... What?

I think its a pretty good price....

you ran that cam(FTI 214/220) with the 3200 stall?? Wouldnt happen to have videos of it would you.

I have a 2000 5.3L with a vinic 210/218 .551/.551 116 Lsa, that I just installed about 3 months ago. This cam is probably the best around town stop light to stop light, 0-60,70ish on a stock set up. This cam is like the comp 212/218 but tweaked for more low end tq

I made 274rwhp & 338rwtq with my stock cam on heavy 83lbs wheels. I had all boltons for these numbers. LT,CAI,UDP,e-fans......custom dyno tune.

I have not dyno tuned the cam yet, but I can tell a huge diffrences in power from 1000-3000rpm. Up top it runs like the Ls6 cam not these 220+. The best part is an average of 2mpg better. I currently am getting 18-19 city 23-24 highway. 3.42 gear stock stall

My (.02 cents) huge low end tq difference and mpgs. Perfect TRUE daily driver cam.

Those numbers on stock cam is a certified 5.3 factory freak

I'm pretty sure where I want the duration and lift, the LSA and ICL are the biggest variables for me right now. I am leaning towards a 110 or 109 LSA...

All depends on the Dyno. He also said he had bolts and a custom tune.

Doesn't seem far off

The Isky's are all custom grinds. A 210/214, .532''/.532'' or 212/215, .561''/.566'' on a 108~109 would work pretty decent... The .532'' lift Isky lobes have a shorter seat to seat number and make a little more low end tq.

The tq is hard for people to believe especially without a dyno chart. I think the throttle body spacer and custom 3" true dual with 2 x pipes help squeez out the extra 20ish tq. I saw a stock c5 with just a throttle body spacer gain 8 rwhp and 7 rwtq. No lie that's why I bought one haha best up grade per $$$

and for somebody to believe a throttle body spacer helps power............

it works great on carbed motors where it gives the fuel more time and room to atomize.. but when all it does it space the throttle body further forward on our trucks :huh:





Im running the Isky 215 in my LQ4 and love it. nice to pull a loaded trailer and not have to drop to third pulling hills. :D

Got the Isky 214-220? im thinking hard about putting in the Tahoe ;)

The only time a spacer works on our trucks is if you drill and tap it for giggle gas.

and that makes quite a big difference :D

Should have stuck with a 5.3, he makes more torque than I do.

It is the spiral effect. It applies to the theory of boost from turbos and superchargers. Directional spinning of the air rapidly to creating more air pressure. The throttle body spacer spins the air's direction just enough to make a slightly more combustible explosion in the chambers 5+hp/tq. The stock heads even have ramps on one side of the intake tunnels for a spiral effect.

Just my .02 cents most people think they are stupid and a waste of $100 is see it as the same gain from porting your stock 78mm throttle body or using premium vs 87

Get the VHP cam haha

:sigh:

It would probably make 10/15 more with stock wheels and tires on, but it wouldn't look as good or hook up with "ONE LEG" :(

tq comes with cubes my mods done to a 6.0L would be a ways down the dyno charts.

My goal from the start was to make a 5500+ truck, beat my friends stupid programed/catback gt mustangs. Hate those cars :guns:

Do you really really believe everything you read on a box?

For real!

I'm just trying to figure out if he's seriously believing this BS before I delete it from my thread :)

even if that little spacer was able to create some kind of spiral of air down the intake, that "spiral effect" (lol) would get broken as soon as the engine started pulling the air down the intake runners.

if it worked everyone would have one...even if it was only proven for a .5 hp gain everyone would have one. magnets on your fuel lines on the other hand....BIG power.

Great, this thread went from CAMs to TB spacers... AWESOME!

Dang I waisted all this money on turbo stuff when I should have just bought like 15 tb spacers.

I'm considering the Comp LSR 215/223 .604/.610 112LSA in my crew cab 5.3

Spiral effect... the air has to be pulled thru the Throttle body, and then start its 180* bend goin up, over and then down into the cylinder..



If its something thats gonna swirl the air, dont you think its a restriction?



IF your theory is correct, why dont you have a Tornado also??

:sigh:
Im right there with you!!

Except i still have one of my Throttle body spacers laying around :burnout:

I might go get some longer bolts and throw that dude on tonight!!