Thats harder because you need to know what pistons and rod lengths are available combined with the heads you want to run to get the compression you want.

 

6.125 rods
heads are stock L92
deck hight is 9.235 with Iron blocks as I read here and there .

would a .005 mill be enough to level the surface . Im getting the blcok to the machine shop today

 

-assembled the pistons and rods .
- droped the block at the machine shop to be bored & honed,decked , and line honed.
-will get the heads saturday , hand ported and polishd , will do a 3 angle valve job done to them. and valve lap them if needed
-cam is here, arp bolts and studs ar here
-waiting on the block to check for clearnces on mains,rods and moving parts

 

decked , line honed , and bored,

the block was a little wavy , removed about 0.004" from it , and its smooth and looking good!

after some mesurements with ARP studs in place and nuts torqued , the clearnces are
from 1 to 5 :
1st 0.0017" - 2nd 0.0017" - 3rd 0.002" - 4th 0.0018" - 5th 0.0019"

asfter some honing and hand polishing :
.002 - .0021 - .0027 - .0022 - .0021

the pistons measured 4.027 and I added the clearnce suggested by wiseco , 0.0035

4.027+0.0035=4.0305"

mocked up the #1 #2 and #7 #8 pistons , the thing is , rod to rod clearnce on the 1 to 2 is 0.025" and the clearnce between the 8-7 is 0.006" ,,, is that a problem or should I proceed with the assembly ?

 

short block done !!!

 

Long block done ! droping the engine tomorow and cranking it by night time wish me luck!!

 

IT'S ALAIVE!!!

what break in method do you guys use?

 

the most resonable thing I have read arround LS1tech is this (almost the same of what GMPP recomended for their crates)

warm up check for noises under Idle RPMs , cool down , change oil , warm up drive it and do 5 to 6 passes @ 40-60% thottle to 4000 RPM and let of each time to idle rpm ,
run it agine 2 to 3 passes @ WOT 100% to 4000 RPM and let of each time to idle rpm

replace oil for the last time , take it to a dyno and hamer it !!

 

Put it in a low gear so when you get it in the upper rpm range, you can let the engine rpms come down on its own. That will help the rings seat. Hope that makes sense.

So put it in first gear, drive it to 4000+ and then just let the engine brake until its under 1500 rpm or so. Do that a few times

Are you running any break in additive?

 

no , just the assembly lube , 75% of what I read say I dont need any .