INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

ARP rod bolts needed?

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Default ARP rod bolts needed?

thinking about getting some ARP rod bolts. at what rpm should i change rod bolts, and does anyone happen to know the torque spec?
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 06sierra5.3
At what rpm should i change rod bolts?
I would suggest changing them while the key is in the off position

It is not necessary to change out the rod bolts but some like the peace of mind it offers.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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haha, key off huh? good thinkin. ive just heard about rod bolts stretching and i want to shift somewhere around 6200, maybe 6500 rpm. im looking into the edlebrock 200 heads from wcch, or ls6 heads. ive asked you guys this before, but you guys running 6500 rpms, what internal mods do you have? im gonna build the heads to handle it, but what about the bottom end?
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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There are mixed opinions on this subject. Some say to throw the bolts on and go, others say that the bearings will need to be plasti-gauged after. Some say to not worry at all. I personally would split the difference, limit the RPM to 6300 or so and leave the stock bolts on.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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pooop! has anyone had problems stretching or breaking rod bolts in a 5.3? if so under what conditions, how many miles etc? thanks
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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From what I've read here, rod bolt failures don't seem to be very common. If I were to change mine, I'd go with Katech over ARP though, also from what I've read here and on Tech. The Katech's are a direct bolt in, while some guys have had to do some mild machining to make the ARP's work properly...as I mentioned, this info isn't from personal experience though, just what I've researched and read.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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I just bought ARP rod bolts for peace of mind. I am going to be shifting
around 6300-6500 rpm. I was told by many that they will bolts right in. $100 insurance, why not?
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