strutaeng

Well darn, I was 100% convinced that was I was going to go with GM Genuine head bolts for my stock 6.0 build, exactly because of what OP mentioned about people snapping them...

A few weeks ago I did snap off some transmission valve body bolts because I was looking at the wrong torque spec on the literature, so I can see what you guys are saying...🤦

shakenfake

@strutaeng Like I said previously I would never ever use GM bolts lol ARP bolts for life.

terravast4

iTrader: (25)

Only ARP here.

strutaeng

I guess that makes sense about the ARP bolts. From the little that I recall from metallurgy, increasing the yield strength of a metal also reduces the ductility (i.e., makes the metal more brittle.)

So a higher strength bolt is more likely to fracture if it is over torqued (with much less yielding or "stretching".) The ARP are not yielded when installed as are the factory bolts.

The torque required to install them is less than TTY because the yield strength is higher on the ARP. That's assuming everything else is the same (clamping force, bolt diameter and length) which I think is the case. The only variable is the yield strength.

Modern Barbarian

Following the torque specs from ARP is supposed to increase the clamping force. That's why they are so popular on boosted engines is it clamps the heads on the gasket tighter.