Another ARP rod bolt ????
Nov 1, 2009 | 11:27 AM
#11
yeah but picking a builder is tough. I got diffenent prices XP racing on NW expressway says he can build the short block for 2200. Ive talked to others out they quoted 5500 using my cam, block and heads. But my cam is wrong. its a blower cam i need a reverse duration for the turbo. At this point im confused as to who to use
Nov 1, 2009 | 11:46 AM
#12
I'm hoping to be OK to just slap my LQ9 right in...it's been sitting in an engine cradle for about 5 years now though. It looks brand new and only has 37K on it...
*EDIT* no money for a rebuild or extra parts, heck, as most of you know I've been off the road for almost a year as I save up the jack for my FLT Level7...sorry for the hijack...
*EDIT* no money for a rebuild or extra parts, heck, as most of you know I've been off the road for almost a year as I save up the jack for my FLT Level7...sorry for the hijack...
Nov 1, 2009 | 11:50 AM
#13
i had my short block done at dunsworth machine in enid. they charged me 800 for the machine work,cleaning, polish crank, balance, file fit rings for nitrous, all the bearings and put the short block together as i didnt have the time to put it together at the time. they used the pistons and rods i had gotten. they have been in business for along time, they started out doing dirt track motors prolly 20-25 years ago. they have done several ls motors
Nov 1, 2009 | 12:29 PM
#14
I still don't understand your logic. A connecting rod bolt's purpose is to hold the rod's big end "halves" together. The only stress on the rod BOLTS is for pulling the piston away from top dead center. The only way to break a rod bolt is from excessive reciprocating WEIGHT. Unless your spinning north of 7K RPM's I wouldn't worry about it. Even if the engine produced 1,000 HP at 5K RPM's, it still wouldn't break a rod bolt. It's under high RPM application where failure occurs. Even then, unless you have an old lsx motor, the newer style bolts are good up to 7K RPM's. You're wasting your time/effort and taking a huge risk. I don't know of many guys who can accuratly use a torque wrench on their backs, under a truck, facing upwards with oil dripping on their face and going at an angle. Just remember, once a rod cap is torqued down and that bearing has conformed to the shape of the rod journal, if you loosen a bolt and move the cap even a ****'s hair, you're going to have a bearing failure. I promise you. I think you should leave it alone if you knew what was good for you. But hey, it's your motor.
When I first joined this site it was "the thing to do", to swap rod bolts. After further research I stopped stressing about it, I'd have to agree with the above. I haven't heard too many here reporting shearing or failure due to the stock bolts.
Nov 1, 2009 | 03:01 PM
#16
Rick
Nov 1, 2009 | 03:17 PM
#17
Nov 1, 2009 | 04:13 PM
#18
Nov 1, 2009 | 10:00 PM
#19
yeah but picking a builder is tough. I got diffenent prices XP racing on NW expressway says he can build the short block for 2200. Ive talked to others out they quoted 5500 using my cam, block and heads. But my cam is wrong. its a blower cam i need a reverse duration for the turbo. At this point im confused as to who to use
he quoted be almost double to build an iron ls1 with me supplying all the parts! That's just him having the machine work done and doing assembly...
