It really varies, but you could potentially see up to 20hp/20ft lbs on a stock truck. But the real reasoning for the tune is in the transmission shift pressures and shift points, reducing the computer controlled torque management, and adjusting engine timing and fueling to be more efficient while producing more power at the same time.


So basically, no matter what kind of truck you drive, a retune is a no brainer if you can afford it ($2-300)

 

well that sounds like my next step.

thanks for all the help.


any recommendations on who i should get a tune from?

 

You really can't go wrong with either one of these guys.

Charlie Wheatley can mail you a PCM to install on your truck, or a new thing he is trying where he actually sends you out the hardware to load the tune in yourself and can make changes via email.

Justin @ Blackbear does mail order tunes and makes plenty of tuning trips throughout the year, but whether or not he will be coming somewhere near you is the only problem.

Both of those guys are the leaders in the field as far as I'm concerned. I have met both of them and they're both really cool guys and do all they can to help. They both have links to the right >>>>> if you want to check them out.

 

Don't want to break the bank and don't want to change the converter? Get a cam like mine (you'll need yellow LS6 valve springs and I recommend hardened pushrods), and a tune from either BlackBear or Wheatley. Mine cam was worth .9 and almost 8mph in the 1/4.

 

He's looking for towing power, not track times. I don't think swapping to a bigger cam is going to help at all down low.

 

A mild cam like mine will help throughout RPM range...I just posted track times to give an idea of the possible gains from small cam.

As for down low, my 60' times improved by .1, which is nothing to be proud of, but I think that can be attributed to tuning and trying to turn the 33's that I was running at the time

Check Vinci's website, I believe that he may have some mild cams that are considered "towing" cams.

 

I checked out my tune options. both seem to be around the same price. I like the idea of FREE upgrades. so i can always change things later.

I am thinking about headers, (maybe taking off the cats) and then getting a tune for now. I will see how that goes. I have alot of miles on my motor, so i might be looking for a rebuild pretty soon.

 

I would try some JBA shorties and a tune. Most wont agree but let me explain. after I installed my Jba's I immediately noticed a difference in torque down low at part throttle. It wasn't huge but it was definitely noticeable. A week later I got a dyno tune by Justin at Blackbear and gained almost 20 Hp and torque. We compared graphs of my truck to another one he recently tuned that had longtubes, and he was able to get more power out of mine down low which we both thought was from the shorties.

Dont get me wrong longtubes have their place, but on a near stock truck that you need more torque, I believe shorties are the answer. The key is the smaller primaries. For your application you want 1 5/8 inch primaries for high exhaust velocity at low engine speeds. You can get longtubes with those size but your limited to only like 1 or 2 brands I believe. but then you need a new y-pipe which ends up not only being more money but flows more as well which brings down your exhaust velocity at lower speeds.

You can get JBA stainless shorties for around 400 but for an extra 200 I would get the ceramic coated ones especially if towing alot to bring underhood temps down.

This is all my opinion so take it for what its worth. I'll try and get my dyno graph up soon. Sorry for the long post, I hope it helps though.

 

I would not recommend shorties. The stock manifolds do the same thing as shorties.

 

but wont the shorties help it breathe better than the manifolds? therefore make more power?

I am gonna get a tune for sure. but I want to do a few other things first before I get the tune, so that the tune will net me the most power for all the mods.