INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

4.8 using forged 305 pistons??????????

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Old 01-23-2007, 01:25 AM
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there are ways to make it work. Not every crank has a stroke of exactly what it's supposed to be. You can find production cranks with up to .050" difference in stroke both ways and more than 5 degrees difference in firing sequence than what it it supposed to be depending on how much it has been used/abused, and about the same in actual connecting rod length.
With a properly indexed crankshaft, you can grind about a .020" offset into the rods to pop the pistons up a little bit, then take about .015" off the deck (about all you will get without any accessory/manifold alignment problems) and use a .030" compressed headgasket to get your target .040" piston to head clearance... assuming a perfect 3.27" stroke
Old 01-23-2007, 11:34 AM
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if you were just going for high compression and not forged I would say just swap stock 5.3 pistons for stock 4.8 pistons
Old 01-23-2007, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lewroe
good idea but it's still $500 bones, I can do forged rods and pistons for that if this will work.

can I take .04 off the block?
Your best bet on that answer would be to talk to a shop that does a lot of LSx stuff. Exotic Performance Plus, Wheel to Wheel, Horsepower Engineering... The list goes on and on.

Check out the sponsors on the right side of the page.
Old 01-23-2007, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lewroe
I should have made it more clear, sorry, I'm boosting this motor so thats why I need forged internals.

I'm familiar with the 5.7 pistons and stuff but I'm wanting a high hp budget build.

If someone will help put some brain power to this it may turn out to be a budget way to go forged....

Stock LS1 pistons are good for 5-7 pounds boosted, and up to 10 with air/water cooler. With a set of good heads/cam/header, that's upwards of 500 wheel hp. Do you really need more out of a "budget" build???
Old 01-23-2007, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_bnoon_SS
Stock LS1 pistons are good for 5-7 pounds boosted, and up to 10 with air/water cooler. With a set of good heads/cam/header, that's upwards of 500 wheel hp. Do you really need more out of a "budget" build???
yes, I need more. If my goal was 500 i wouldnt need a forged bottom end.


I need to support 700hp. I'm using a garrett gt45.
Old 01-23-2007, 06:20 PM
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do it right the first time or you will redo it.trust me
Old 01-24-2007, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by defrag010
there are ways to make it work. Not every crank has a stroke of exactly what it's supposed to be. You can find production cranks with up to .050" difference in stroke both ways and more than 5 degrees difference in firing sequence than what it it supposed to be depending on how much it has been used/abused, and about the same in actual connecting rod length.
With a properly indexed crankshaft, you can grind about a .020" offset into the rods to pop the pistons up a little bit, then take about .015" off the deck (about all you will get without any accessory/manifold alignment problems) and use a .030" compressed headgasket to get your target .040" piston to head clearance... assuming a perfect 3.27" stroke

Makin it happen! nice.
Old 01-24-2007, 10:59 PM
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Or you could use LS2 rods @ 6.098" with some bitchin bolts(good for 500-550rwhp). Then cut .052" off the top of the pistons to get a zero deck.
Old 01-25-2007, 11:53 PM
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A phrase comes to mind reading this.....
If it's strong and reliable, it ain't cheap...If it's cheap, it's not strong and reliable.

If your goal is 700hp I'd save for the right components to acheive your goal that will be reliable and strong. But like stated before, call up one of the sponsors that deal with the LS motors day in and day out to get their input on what you can afford for the budget you want.

Going fast always depends on how much money you wanna spend and sometimes the amount of the budget dictates how much power you can make and still have the components be reliable.
Old 01-26-2007, 03:23 AM
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always costs more doing it twice


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