So after towing a trailer loaded with a quad and a rzr down to Glamis a couple weeks ago I thought I was having a whee bearing go out... finally had some time to check things out tonight. Wheel bearings seemed fine. But the rear brakes are fucked. Inner pad is gone, straight metal on metal. Rotor is grooved and uneven.

With the bigger wheels and tires I was thinking upgrading the brakes would be a good idea. Don’t want to go larger rotors since I will be going down in size on the wheels soon. Anyone have experience with the power stop stuff? Looking at potentially the Z36 kit. Rotors and pads all the way around for ~400$ seems like a pretty good deal.

Didn’t think I’d really want or need drilled and slotted rotors but they come with the kit.

 

Love my PowerStop brakes and have had no issues. The hats are zinc plated, won't rust and look clean through an open type wheel. I have the Z23 pads and they stop my rcsb easily, quiet with very little dusting to deal with between truck washes. Didn't care much for the stainless hardware kit (slides) that came with the pads for my 2000 GMC. Just didn't fit the calipers as well as the OEM Delco pieces. I just cleaned up and used my old ones. They may fit better with a different application... you didn't post what they're going on. If you don't like the fit you could always buy a new OEM Delco hardware kit.

Just to add... I have no experience towing heavy loads with the PowerStops.

Painted the OEM calipers.

 

I have the z36 kit on both of my trucks and I bought acdelco hardware for the slide pins. They are noise/dust free and stop very well. I will definitely put them on any future vehicle I own.

 

I've used these guys in the past on my diesels and hot rods. I've had great luck with them.

https://brakeperformance.com/

 

They will be going on a 14 crew cab, 6" lift, with 35" tires.

I wouldn't really classify the trailer as a "heavy load" but I guess I could just be under estimating it. RZR is ~1800lbs, quad is ~350, and the trailer is just a 22' dove tail steel trailer(no clue on weight). Bed was loaded with tires, two 5 gallon gas jugs, cooler, and misc gear. I definitely don't think that was what killed the brakes, maybe the straw that broke the camels back so to speak.

I just want to get something that will last and not have issues with over the life of. Based on what you guys are saying, I think they will be a good set.

I was also searching for stainless braided lines and didn't come across anything for the 14+ trucks. Anyone have a set on a 14+?

 

I also run the powerstop stuff on everything. Fitment is always spot on and they seem to last as long or longer than OEM. Plus you can find really good deals and crazy fast shipping on Summit.

 

I actually tow a near identical load on a slightly smaller trailer from time to time with my RCSB that's running powerstop front stuff. Truck is way to short and too soft of suspension for towing but it doesn't lack in the braking or horsepower department.

 

After all my experiences I like OEM and raybestos.
Raybestos direct copies OEM configurations (vane size, orientation, etc) on their rotors. One of their reps came to the shop and we had a long conversation and got to learn a lot about them. Plus I've used their products in shops all my career. 2 of the shops I've worked at have a raybestos only deal. They consistently offered the best performance, and no comebacks. And of course OEM stuff does too.

I've been a tech for 20+ years and done a million brake jobs. I tested OEM, Axxis ultimate, EBC, raybestos, wagner etc on my personal cars, on top of all the customer cars I've done.

On my 95 turbo integra gsr the OEM brakes (nissin) stopped as good as any, resisted fading as good as the Axxis pads and EBC's did, but lasted longer and dusted less
On my GSXR bikes I've had and my Honda's, I tried EBC and OEM. OEM stopped just as good, dusted less and lasted longer. OEM on those bikes are both Nissin, excellent stuff
On my camaro SS I ran EBC's, Raybestos, and OEM. Ran blank rotors and EBC dimpled and slotted. I did not notice better braking with the EBC stuff (rotors or pads), but they wore out faster DUSTED BADDD, just like they did on the bikes and the integra. One of my GSXR's had white wheels. The EBC pads would turn the wheels black after a couple of hours, I rode hard though. The OEM nissin stuff did not do this. They would get the wheels dusted up after 4-5 rides though.
My first integra I tried OEM pads and some drilled rotors. Hated the drilled went back to blanks, that was a one off thing though, for some reason those things warped like every couple of weeks and I was constantly pulling them and cutting them back straight.

What I've learned, or in my experience, and also my preference... Surface area matters. And matters big when it comes to grip. Blank rotors provide the most surface area to grip. Slotted and drilled reduce surface area. Not a ton, or you may not notice it a ton. But they do. They have their place though and I would use them on an autocross car where I need max cooling and gas/dirt etc expelling. On my street cars I want blanks. But regardless I keep shopping drilled rotors because I love the look, and keep not buying them because I do not love them.

I've used a billion types of rotors and pads over the years. So far my favorites are the high end raybestos, and OEM. Raybestos makes excellent frictions and rotors. (I used the word frictions because they also do a ton of clutches for transmissions and trans builders love raybestos, even in race stuff)

I've ran all types of raybestos pads on customer cars and my own. They work excellent, bite good, don't dust much and are quiet. Even their lower end stuff is great. Used all levels of their pads on countless cars.

As for lasting. This current truck had 113k when I replaced the pads. I only replaced them because I was given a brand new set for front and rear in the box. The pads still had well over 50% at 113k. My 2004 truck I sold to buy this one still had the original OEM front pads at 191k and had some life left. Seen this on countless customer GM and chevy trucks too.

Your problem with the rear brakes is extremely likely to be seized pins. The pins allow the caliper to float and apply equal pressure on the inner and outer pads. When the pins seize you only get pressure on the inside pad and it wears and the outer does not.

I'm sure a lot of people will say they love their drilled rotors and aftermarket pads. They work and people like them. But like anything else you start doing a lot of back to back testing what you feel and what comes out in testing may not always line up. Doesn't really matter though, if you (other people posting) like your setup, you like your setup and I don't blame you. Just posting up my experiences and some stuff I've done.
I did some stopping distance stuff with a temperature gun in hand many years back. Did some 100 mph to 0 stopping etc. Did all kinds off goof off testing with this stuff and I ended up running OEM pads and quality blank rotors.

Sorry for the explosion of info. But I've played around with this stuff a lot.

 

I had EBC green stuff and EBC yellow stuff, paired with the drilled/slotted rotors they recommend for each pad. HATED them. Dust like crazy, lasted poorly, braking was negligible. I did tons of back roads driving empty and with 3,000# of scrap metal.

Power stops are good. But just good. Next set will be a blank rotor and ceramic pad.

Infiniti G37 base, went from OEM to Powerstop full kit- larger Akebono rebuilt sport calibers, their pads and drilled slotted rotors. They dust as bad as the EBC yellow stuff, which is the worst I've personally seen. After about 25k miles the fronts are absolutely warped to ****. I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks since I don't have replacements yet. I was debating doing stock style ceramic pads and blank rotors from powerstop but after reading Pooters experiences, I'll probably go back to OEM.

 

I had a g37s that I put the brakeperformance pads and dimpled rotors on and it was a dream. I tried to overheat the brakes and never could.