Wouldn't this be more than a 2-4 drop?
#11
Yeah the only reason it is advertised as a 7" drop is because the trucks come with the block in them... If they didn't have the block in there from the factory, it would be advertised as a 5 1/2" or 6" drop.
the coils were pretty easy to change.... You just need a spring compressor ( i got mine at autozone) and maybe another pair of hands to help you with it... Once I had the coil and strut assembly back together, I needed someone to help me spin the spring to the right position.... You will see once you get in there, it's not very difficult.
the coils were pretty easy to change.... You just need a spring compressor ( i got mine at autozone) and maybe another pair of hands to help you with it... Once I had the coil and strut assembly back together, I needed someone to help me spin the spring to the right position.... You will see once you get in there, it's not very difficult.
#12
instead of coils for the front, get drop spindles instead. It keeps the factory ride, and everything bolts back into the factory positions. That ebay kit doesn't have anything for a carrier bearing drop, but yours is a regular cab, so no worries there.
#13
yeah, if you're only gonna drop it 2" in the front, i say go for spindles instead of springs, since it keeps everything aligned the same....
but if you do, do NOT use a ball joint separator fork on the ball joints... you can get away with it on the tie rod ends, but i learned the hard way not to use it on the ball joints (destroyed the rubber boot on the upper driver's side
)
i used a 3 lb hammer to knock the spindles out, it worked like a charm.... just GENTLY beat the hell out of them until the ball joints pop out of the holes and you're good to go....
but if you do, do NOT use a ball joint separator fork on the ball joints... you can get away with it on the tie rod ends, but i learned the hard way not to use it on the ball joints (destroyed the rubber boot on the upper driver's side
)i used a 3 lb hammer to knock the spindles out, it worked like a charm.... just GENTLY beat the hell out of them until the ball joints pop out of the holes and you're good to go....
Last edited by SIERRA323; Dec 8, 2007 at 11:07 AM. Reason: added info
#14
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From: Kansas City, Mo
yeah, if you're only gonna drop it 2" in the front, i say go for spindles instead of springs, since it keeps everything aligned the same....
but if you do, do NOT use a ball joint separator fork on the ball joints... you can get away with it on the tie rod ends, but i learned the hard way not to use it on the ball joints (destroyed the rubber boot on the upper driver's side
)
i used a 3 lb hammer to knock the spindles out, it worked like a charm.... just GENTLY beat the hell out of them until the ball joints pop out of the holes and you're good to go....
but if you do, do NOT use a ball joint separator fork on the ball joints... you can get away with it on the tie rod ends, but i learned the hard way not to use it on the ball joints (destroyed the rubber boot on the upper driver's side
)i used a 3 lb hammer to knock the spindles out, it worked like a charm.... just GENTLY beat the hell out of them until the ball joints pop out of the holes and you're good to go....
#15
Okay..well what about this kit from ground force. They say its a 2" front drop and rear drop of 4.5" with replacement leafs.....am I to assume that the 4.5" is including the removal of the block, therefore if my blocks are allready removed the net yeild will only be an additional 3.25" ?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...651+4294748643
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...651+4294748643
#16
Okay..well what about this kit from ground force. They say its a 2" front drop and rear drop of 4.5" with replacement leafs.....am I to assume that the 4.5" is including the removal of the block, therefore if my blocks are allready removed the net yeild will only be an additional 3.25" ?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...651+4294748643
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...651+4294748643
#17
Im not sure...but I think I was called dumb
...lol...j/k
Actually hotchkis makes 4" drop leafs
http://www.hotchkis.net/p-412-sport-leaf-springs.aspx
btw...would leafs from a 2004 fit our NNBS trucks?
...lol...j/kActually hotchkis makes 4" drop leafs
http://www.hotchkis.net/p-412-sport-leaf-springs.aspx
btw...would leafs from a 2004 fit our NNBS trucks?
Last edited by JB1; Dec 8, 2007 at 10:55 PM.
#18
Im not sure...but I think I was called dumb
...lol...j/k
Actually hotchkis makes 4" drop leafs
http://www.hotchkis.net/p-412-sport-leaf-springs.aspx
btw...would leafs from a 2004 fit our NNBS trucks?
...lol...j/kActually hotchkis makes 4" drop leafs
http://www.hotchkis.net/p-412-sport-leaf-springs.aspx
btw...would leafs from a 2004 fit our NNBS trucks?

what i meant was a lowering kit made to LOWER your truck and have you put your LIFT blocks back in it would be dumb.....
and about those 4" drop leafs, hmm.... interesting....
$360? ouch....
whenever i can find a 03-07 sierra for a good price, im gonna get them though...
as far as them fitting the NNBS trucks, im not sure.... the old ones were 2.5" wide i think, i dont know how wide ours are...
Last edited by SIERRA323; Dec 8, 2007 at 11:30 PM. Reason: added info
#19
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From: Kansas City, Mo
I bought my new wheels tonight. Same ones I had on my old truck. Im installing these tomorrow along with my greystone grill, doing the painted headlight mod. I took one on the lift blocks out the back today. Made a little difference but I need to drop the bitch. Here is a pic of what my new wheels look like, this is my old truck.
#20
anyone do a 3" belltech drop? the kit says that it works with stock 17" but it's from from the truth. The lower ball joints have to be ground down so far that it's not really safe. The kit says to take off 1/8 inch, but in the end there's only 1/8 inch left !


