removing rear blocks... 2wd
May 9, 2009 | 09:01 PM
#12
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Sandy Hook, Ky.
When installing the shackles you don't have to remove the u bolts that hold the rear end in place. So no those are not intended for that. If you remove the blocks just get about an inch worth of washers times 8 so you don't run out of threads when you tighten back up the u bolts without the blocks.
May 9, 2009 | 09:18 PM
#13
Oh, and if you have a trailer hitch...just remove the 3 frame rail bolts on each side...then slowly loosen each bolt that attaches the hitch to the bumper. This will allow it to pivot downward giving you clearance to remove the shackle bolt without having to fight the hitch (learned this trick the hard way)
May 10, 2009 | 09:26 AM
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
From: Lake Village,AR
You'll have just enough threads after taking out the blocks. And I bet a ccsb will be a little lower and closer to being exactly level in the rear than my rcsb. I di it on my buddies lift and the whole project took about 30 minutes to do shackles and take out the blocks. If you have access to someone's lift sure is better than laying on the ground!
May 10, 2009 | 12:02 PM
#18
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: CAYMAN ISLANDS
When I installed my rear shackles, my truck was new, so I couldn't bear the thought of cutting or flattening the seam under the bed (as per the instructions) to get the shackles high enough to get the top bolts out and back in again. I figured this would just be a good spot for rust to start down the line. The solution was quite easy - I just backed out all of the bolts holding the bed to the chassis and jacked the bed up slightly off the chassis and it gave me just enough height to get the bolts out of the old shackles and the into the new ones. I'm not sure if the new shackles will hit the seam if it's not modified though, because I did take a vise-grip with the jaws taped up and bent the seam slightly upwards, just to make sure the new shackles didn't rub on it. All in all, it worked nicely and I'm happier that I didn't have to bang or cut up my truck.
BTW: my truck's stance now looks much better (almost perfectly level) with the two inch drop shackles, so I'm thinking of installing the 2" drop spindles in the front and removing the rear blocks, which should drop the front 2" and the rear another 1 1/2" or so. That way, you have the cheapest 2/4" (actually like 3.5") drop on the market, IMO.
BTW: my truck's stance now looks much better (almost perfectly level) with the two inch drop shackles, so I'm thinking of installing the 2" drop spindles in the front and removing the rear blocks, which should drop the front 2" and the rear another 1 1/2" or so. That way, you have the cheapest 2/4" (actually like 3.5") drop on the market, IMO.
May 12, 2009 | 06:28 PM
#19
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 3
From: Fort Worth, Texas
got this finished after work today... DAMN ITS HOT... is the first thing I have to say...
it looks great, front HAS to come down now... it rides much rougher now, not sure what thats all about but its ok. also it feels like it has hurt acceleration for some reason, it may be that its just not squatting as much as before so it doesn't have that "kick in the ***" feeling that it did due to the bounce before but overall its cool.
I'll be doing some 2" spindles up front PDQ to get the 2/4 look and then it'll need some 20s...
it looks great, front HAS to come down now... it rides much rougher now, not sure what thats all about but its ok. also it feels like it has hurt acceleration for some reason, it may be that its just not squatting as much as before so it doesn't have that "kick in the ***" feeling that it did due to the bounce before but overall its cool.
I'll be doing some 2" spindles up front PDQ to get the 2/4 look and then it'll need some 20s...
