AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

those numbers wouldnt match up on summit
but I found
234-2503 LS1 Balancer Bolt

134-1002 Cam Retainer Bolts

AND

134-1003 Cam Sprocket Bolts

unfortunately those head studs just arent on the budget for this build, the ones I found were like $470!!! so unless I clicked something wrong, I think the GM bolts will be ok for this very mild build!

AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

What assembly lube do you prefer to use?

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

Engine oil works well, comp cam lube too.

Also the p/n did reference over if you leave off the 113...



Also you dont want "head studs" unless you are going boosted or a ton of nitrous. You want ARP head bolts all its just an upgrade from a factory head bolt. Also why spend 50.00 on GM head bolts then turn around and buy ARP head bolts? Thats a waste of 50.00 that can be added to other upgrades or hell to the cost of the arp head bolts.

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

ARP 134-3610 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits - Mobile SummitRacing.com
Head bolts for 05+ blocks

AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

Your right about the wasting money. The sd order already showed up so unless I could magically sell the bolts I'd just be wasting it.
I think I've got everything ordered that I need now. I'll order the other arp bolts today and the cam lube.

Is there anything strange or tricky to this cam swap or is it just like the older Chevy small blocks and super straight forward?

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

I personally like to prop the hood up (take the 2 10mm bolts out of the hinges) prop it up as far as you can.

Remove radiator, e fans. Take 3/8" rubber hose an loop the trans lines back together to keep the lose of oil under control. I take the 2 e clips out of the fittings on the radiator with a pocket flat head (really small) or you can use a 3/8" fuel rail tool i think.

Remove the water pump and ALT, then take the powersteering bracket and roll to the drivers side.
Climb in the truck and Take wiring harness loose, and ziptie out of the way. Remove the ground strap on the rear of driver head.
Remove intake, coil brakets, remove headers/manifolds from head. Remove spark plugs. Take valve covers off, take all rockers loose and remove (i like to put them back in the exact spot they go so i pull the whole stand with rockers and bolts still on them) then remove heads and lifters (trays also, keep track of the bolts)
Then take the crank bolt loose, pull crank pulley, remove front cover (a 10mm ratcher wrench is the best option for that pita bolt next to the ac bracket. 2 bolts hold the oil pan to the front cover REMOVE THEM so you dont pry it off and break the oil pan and front cover.

Install crank bolt and turn with ratchet till you get the cam gear and crank gear dot to dot. Use impact to break cam bolt loose, pull cam gear and lay the timing chain down on top of the crank gear. Remove the cam plate (T40 torx i think) be careful to not round the tork off you will hate yourself if you do. Get out of the engine bay and lean over the radiator support and Take the cam out keep it as level as possible (i reinstall the cam bolt to help start to pull it out)

Next is the best part I RECOMMEND YOU CHANGE THE TENSIONER WITH A LS2 WEDGE!

Lower the oil pan as far as you can to get to the PITA oil pump bolt! You will have to remove the steel line on the rack and pinion to do so remove old tensioner, install new wedge style. Then go back with everything. I personally lube the cam then install then start to set the timing gear dots back. Best way i found to do it is get the timing chain tight on the lower gear then find the groove for the timing gear to line back up dot to dot and install the bolts.

AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

alright thats all really straight forward for the most part and I have cammed an older non ls chev small block. I also have ALL the tools you mentioned plus some so i'm pretty set there, I even have an angle torque wrench if needed for the head bolts

do I have enough slack in the A/C lines to move the condenser or should I evac it and unhook it?

I'm glad I can just remove grille / rad / etc and just slide the cam straight out, I like to bolt the gear back onto the cam after I remove the retainer for more handling and grip....can I still do that to this cam too?

you mentioned lower the oil pan as much as I can for the LS2 chain dampener and oil pump bolt; I've seen a picture before and I thought that dampener went between the crank and cam gears and it was almost like a guide? I did follow your advice and I do have the LS2 dampener. and I guess how come I need to remove the oil pump during this process?

thanks for the walk threw!

AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

here's that picture of the dampener I saw


and I answered my own question why oil pump gets to be removed haha...way to be GM putting the chain before the oil pump! is this pump driven by a key way on the crank or is it driven by the chain?

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

Pump is driven by small splines on the crank gear. Also the oil pump has to be removed to get to the tensioner, there is no way to install it nor remove it with the oil pump in the way.

AUTOT3K

iTrader: (3)

has anybody ordered threw TSP lately?
when I originally priced out my stuff the shipping was gonna be about $165, now its $345!!
I was hoping to order my stuff tonight

220R @ 112lsa
7.425" push rods
.650 springs

20 valve seals

Comp Cam Trunion Upgrade Kit

pacesetter LT's & off road y pipe

I feel like i'm forgetting something