I've been pondering adding a little boost to my little 4.8, but I've heard horror stories about the driveshafts on these trucks. I wouldn't need to get a two piece DS on a regular cab would I? If I set my pinion angles correctly (lowered with axle flip) would my factory driveshaft hold up? Also, is there a 4l60e out there that hasn't grenaded with decent power? I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before dropping my funds on a Whipple. Thanks!

 

I'm sure someone more knowledgable will chime in....
But the driveshaft sure wouldn't b my first worry. But u may as we'll replace it and add a loop while you're replacing your rear end and 60e.
To answer your question there is a few guys on here that make a few more hp than stock on their Rcsb trucks!
Have fun with that whipple!

 

what do you consider "real power"?

if you have an aluminum drive shaft, it will split like a coke can. find a factory steel shaft. your carrier will need to be upgraded. some guys put good power through build 60e transmissions, but most will say go ahead and upgrade to an 80e if you plan to step it up big.

 

drive shafts break from speed not from power

 

I do have a steel driveshaft, but I understand that there is a <100mph limiter there for a reason. In the next couple weeks, I'll have 4.11 gears with an Eaton posi, which increases the driveshaft speed about 23%.... I'm not concerned that it'll just rip to shreds, but I just don't like the whole grey area when it comes to driveshafts. It was my understanding that goofy pinion angles cause them to break before too much power, but it all seems to be a combination of different things. Ideally, I would like to have around 500hp at the wheels, or at least at first. I have a feeling that it won't hook up on the street with anything much more than stock anyway, but here's to hoping!

 

I exploded my DS a few years back on a dyno 3rd gear pull. I would just swap it out now before it goes and takes other things with it...

 

I'm not sure what constitutes real power, but I have plenty more than stock in my RCSB. 70mm turbo at 12 psi.

I installed a TransGo HD2 kit around 60,000 miles along with a trans flush and filter. Transmission never skipped a beat. I installed the turbo around 89,000, and the trans was slipping under half throttle by 91,000. I pulled it and swapped in a 80e with a HD2 kit as well, with a Circle D 3200 converter. I cut the stock steel shaft down by 1.5" or so.

I spent months messing around with the transmission as it was stuck in second gear. Ended up being solenoid B in the valve body was bad. Everything has been great since then, and I beat on it every time I take it out.

 

well my truck has 355hp, for now

 

i have replaced everything on my truck except the "stock" driveshaft, you should be fine.
might want to get rid of that 60e before it blows up though.

 

Mine is a 2010 RCSB W/T 5.3L 6L80E with a stock steel shaft.

Mods are:
Lysholm 2300 with a 3" pulley
Lingenfelter GT2-3 Cam
Alky Control Methanol injection
Frozenboost heat exchanger
ARH 1-7/8" headers with catted Y pipe
OEM 4" Duramax exhaust
Coan 2800 stall triple disc lock up converter (locks in 3,4,5,6 at WOT)
Caltracs
3.73 gears
Eaton posi that's exploded twice
15x10 rims with 315/60 ET Street Radials

It's capable of quicker but keeps chewing up spider gears, fastest time I've gotten out of it was 11.81 @ 116.81 mph with a 1.62 60' on a 3.25" pulley on pump gas only.