2007 suburban dod/oil pressure light issue
10-18-2015, 03:29 PM
#11
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
Ex wife........ find you cheapest salvage yard 4.8 you can find throw it in and walk away. DOD oiling problems are damm pandoras box we wont even touch them anymore. Just throw new motors in with a warranty and walk away. 4.8 will be less work and cash all way around then playing hide and seek on a motor that has already had problems in the past. Will it make less power yup but it will run and it wont be your problem anymore. You are already a better man than me.
10-18-2015, 06:25 PM
#12
Taking care of the kids as far as im concerned, not her.... Junkyards around here want more for a used motor than ill have in a take out 4.8 cam and dod/vvt delete... And she takin it out of child support so...... Thought about dropping a 4.8 in but, rather just fix the pis she has as cheap as possible
10-18-2015, 07:56 PM
#13
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
That's just the problem there is no one item that can produce this problem there are several things that can cause it namely the cam bearings being as it has already had this problem before. DOD delete best route to go but if it munched cam bearings you are still screwed. By the time all the parts are added up especially if you gotta go into it multiple times it will cost more than a 4.8.
Are the lifters rattling and how low is oil pressure. It's a damm pandoras box as to the cause of the problem and a reliable repair. You really just gotta take it apart and start inspecting things a lifter a failed oil pump wore cam bearings and even seen them spin a cam bearing etc are the normal culprits.
Which is why we don't mess with them by the time you have parts and labor and fix one problem it will be gtg and later on down the road theres other items that can fail and produce the exact same end result as far as the customer is concerned and then you are the bad guy cause the same problem is back even though it's a different component we didn't even touch. So all I am getting at in all of this for a customer satisfaction standpoint and our pain in the *** standpoint if it comes in outta warranty we quote them a motor with a warranty If they don't want to do that push it out the door we wont touch it.
Are the lifters rattling and how low is oil pressure. It's a damm pandoras box as to the cause of the problem and a reliable repair. You really just gotta take it apart and start inspecting things a lifter a failed oil pump wore cam bearings and even seen them spin a cam bearing etc are the normal culprits.
Which is why we don't mess with them by the time you have parts and labor and fix one problem it will be gtg and later on down the road theres other items that can fail and produce the exact same end result as far as the customer is concerned and then you are the bad guy cause the same problem is back even though it's a different component we didn't even touch. So all I am getting at in all of this for a customer satisfaction standpoint and our pain in the *** standpoint if it comes in outta warranty we quote them a motor with a warranty If they don't want to do that push it out the door we wont touch it.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; 10-18-2015 at 08:13 PM.
10-18-2015, 08:12 PM
#14
Hers has dod so does my yukon, 07 and 08 respectively, its the vvt thats up in the air.... Cam bearings arent that expensive... have driver set.... Called junkyard few months ago they wanted damn near $2000 for a 4.8... 5.3 was 2500.. Not even gonna discuss 6.0!!! Had it been lm7 or lr4 wouldve been about 1500 or so
10-18-2015, 08:15 PM
#15
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
10's when they added VVT to a 5.3.
It all depends on how much time you want to put into it if your time has a dollar value. Can you put cam bearings in it yup sure can but by the time you are that far in may as well do DOD delete to ensure 100% reliability. But by the time you have head gaskets and headbolts and valley plate and valley plate gasket and oil pump and pan gasket water pump gaskets and timing gasket and a replacement cam to CYA you are sitting very very close to a used 4.8.
Under normal circumstances even at shop I'd never say 4.8. But cheapest quickest most long term reliable slam hood and forget about is 4.8. Otherwise pull 5.3 put coated gm replacement cam bearings in DOD delete and all new above parts. You can drive that 5.3 to 500K miles then reliably
Theres no cheap way out with modern cars it sucks.
It all depends on how much time you want to put into it if your time has a dollar value. Can you put cam bearings in it yup sure can but by the time you are that far in may as well do DOD delete to ensure 100% reliability. But by the time you have head gaskets and headbolts and valley plate and valley plate gasket and oil pump and pan gasket water pump gaskets and timing gasket and a replacement cam to CYA you are sitting very very close to a used 4.8.
Under normal circumstances even at shop I'd never say 4.8. But cheapest quickest most long term reliable slam hood and forget about is 4.8. Otherwise pull 5.3 put coated gm replacement cam bearings in DOD delete and all new above parts. You can drive that 5.3 to 500K miles then reliably
Theres no cheap way out with modern cars it sucks.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; 10-18-2015 at 08:29 PM.
10-18-2015, 09:00 PM
#17
Considering i get parts at cost, thinking itd still be less expensive to delete dod, put set of standard lifters in and run with it just wanna plan on some sort of cam to eliminate it anyway.... Dod delete is a no brainer!!!
Oil pressure when i checked it was if memory serves at the port by filter was wanna say 18 psi and 1-5 at the opsu port.... Engine is quite no knocking but was consuming oil, which i think was mostly the dipstick and filler neck she hasnt bitched about oil actually being low and having to add since i put those on while back.... Im really thinking the $26 4.8 valley cover 4 $8 lifters and a Felpro head gasket set (&95)is gonna be way to go on this.... If i need a cam im looking at aused cam and hell i have a lq9 cam i can throw in it if need be....
Oil pressure when i checked it was if memory serves at the port by filter was wanna say 18 psi and 1-5 at the opsu port.... Engine is quite no knocking but was consuming oil, which i think was mostly the dipstick and filler neck she hasnt bitched about oil actually being low and having to add since i put those on while back.... Im really thinking the $26 4.8 valley cover 4 $8 lifters and a Felpro head gasket set (&95)is gonna be way to go on this.... If i need a cam im looking at aused cam and hell i have a lq9 cam i can throw in it if need be....
10-18-2015, 10:10 PM
#18
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
4.8 valley cover will work, LQ9 cam will work, swapping DOD for non dod lifters only on DOD lifters will work but you need to change tray's to non dod lifter trays.
EN-47971 Oil Pressure Gage Adapter
J 21867 Pressure Gage
J-21867-16 Oil Pressure Adapter
Important:
Active Fuel Management Oil Pressure Relief Valve Diagnosis and Testing is applicable for RPO LY2/LC9/LY5/LMG/LY6/L76/L92.
This test is performed to verify the operation of the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve located in the oil pan. Refer to Cylinder Deactivation (Active Fuel Management) System Description and Lubrication Description.
Remove the oil filter and install the EN-47971 (1).
Install the J 21867 (2), or equivalent to the EN-47971 (1).
Remove the oil pressure sensor and install the J-21867-16.
Install the J 21867 (1), or equivalent to the J-21867-16 (2).
Run the engine and measure the engine oil pressure while observing both gages. Operate the throttle, as required, to increase and decrease the engine oil pressure.
With the engine running and the lower pressure gage (2) measuring below 379 kPa (55 psi), both gages should display the same pressure reading. If the readings are not the same and the lower gage (2) has a higher reading, the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve is stuck in the open position or the valve lifter oil manifold filter is plugged.
With the engine running and the lower pressure gage (2) measuring above 379 kPa (55 psi), the upper gage (1) should display no greater than 379-517 kPa (55-75 psi). If the reading on the upper gage (1) is greater than 517 kPa (75 psi), the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve is stuck in the closed position.
Repair, as required.
EN-47971 Oil Pressure Gage Adapter
J 21867 Pressure Gage
J-21867-16 Oil Pressure Adapter
Important:
Active Fuel Management Oil Pressure Relief Valve Diagnosis and Testing is applicable for RPO LY2/LC9/LY5/LMG/LY6/L76/L92.
This test is performed to verify the operation of the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve located in the oil pan. Refer to Cylinder Deactivation (Active Fuel Management) System Description and Lubrication Description.
Remove the oil filter and install the EN-47971 (1).
Install the J 21867 (2), or equivalent to the EN-47971 (1).
Remove the oil pressure sensor and install the J-21867-16.
Install the J 21867 (1), or equivalent to the J-21867-16 (2).
Run the engine and measure the engine oil pressure while observing both gages. Operate the throttle, as required, to increase and decrease the engine oil pressure.
With the engine running and the lower pressure gage (2) measuring below 379 kPa (55 psi), both gages should display the same pressure reading. If the readings are not the same and the lower gage (2) has a higher reading, the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve is stuck in the open position or the valve lifter oil manifold filter is plugged.
With the engine running and the lower pressure gage (2) measuring above 379 kPa (55 psi), the upper gage (1) should display no greater than 379-517 kPa (55-75 psi). If the reading on the upper gage (1) is greater than 517 kPa (75 psi), the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve is stuck in the closed position.
Repair, as required.
10-18-2015, 10:18 PM
#19
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing
Special Tools
EN-21867 - Pressure Gauge
EN-21867-16 - Oil Pressure Adapter
With the vehicle on a level surface, run the vehicle for a few minutes. Allow adequate drain down time, 2-3 minutes, and measure the oil level.
If required, add the recommended grade engine oil and fill the crankcase until the oil level measures full on the oil level indicator.
Run the engine briefly, 10-15 seconds, and verify low or no oil pressure on the vehicle gauge or light.
Listen for a noisy valve train or a knocking noise.
Inspect for the following conditions:
Oil diluted by water or glycol antifreeze Refer to Coolant in Engine Oil See: Testing and Inspection\Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Coolant In Engine Oil
Foamy oil, which may be caused by a cut or damaged oil pump screen O-ring seal
Remove the oil pressure sensor (1).
Install the EN-21867-16 - adapter (2) and EN-21867 - pressure gauge (1), or equivalent.
Run the engine until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and measure the engine oil pressure.
Compare the readings to Specifications. See: Specifications
If the engine oil pressure is below specifications, inspect the engine for 1 or more of the following conditions:
If equipped, valve lifter oil manifold filter plugged or damaged. Refer to Valve Lifter Oil Manifold Cleaning and Inspection See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
If equipped, improper operation of the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve. Refer to Cylinder Deactivation (Active Fuel Management) Oil Pressure Relief Valve Diagnosis and Testing . See: Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics
If equipped, check if the engine oil cooler or oil cooler lines are plugged or damaged.
Oil pump worn or dirty. Refer to Oil Pump Cleaning and Inspection. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Oil pump-to-engine block bolts loose. Refer to Oil Pump, Screen and Crankshaft Oil Deflector Installation See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Oil pump screen loose, plugged, or damaged.
Oil pump screen O-ring seal missing or damaged.
Excessive debris in the oil pan and/or oil filter (possibly indicating internal engine damage).
Malfunctioning oil pump pressure relief valve.
Excessive bearing clearance and/or bearing damage. Refer to Crankshaft and Bearing Cleaning and Inspection and Camshaft and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Cracked, porous, or restricted oil galleries.
Oil gallery plugs missing or incorrectly installed. Refer to Engine Block Plug Installation. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Special Tools
EN-21867 - Pressure Gauge
EN-21867-16 - Oil Pressure Adapter
With the vehicle on a level surface, run the vehicle for a few minutes. Allow adequate drain down time, 2-3 minutes, and measure the oil level.
If required, add the recommended grade engine oil and fill the crankcase until the oil level measures full on the oil level indicator.
Run the engine briefly, 10-15 seconds, and verify low or no oil pressure on the vehicle gauge or light.
Listen for a noisy valve train or a knocking noise.
Inspect for the following conditions:
Oil diluted by water or glycol antifreeze Refer to Coolant in Engine Oil See: Testing and Inspection\Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Coolant In Engine Oil
Foamy oil, which may be caused by a cut or damaged oil pump screen O-ring seal
Remove the oil pressure sensor (1).
Install the EN-21867-16 - adapter (2) and EN-21867 - pressure gauge (1), or equivalent.
Run the engine until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and measure the engine oil pressure.
Compare the readings to Specifications. See: Specifications
If the engine oil pressure is below specifications, inspect the engine for 1 or more of the following conditions:
If equipped, valve lifter oil manifold filter plugged or damaged. Refer to Valve Lifter Oil Manifold Cleaning and Inspection See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
If equipped, improper operation of the active fuel management oil pressure relief valve. Refer to Cylinder Deactivation (Active Fuel Management) Oil Pressure Relief Valve Diagnosis and Testing . See: Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics
If equipped, check if the engine oil cooler or oil cooler lines are plugged or damaged.
Oil pump worn or dirty. Refer to Oil Pump Cleaning and Inspection. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Oil pump-to-engine block bolts loose. Refer to Oil Pump, Screen and Crankshaft Oil Deflector Installation See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Oil pump screen loose, plugged, or damaged.
Oil pump screen O-ring seal missing or damaged.
Excessive debris in the oil pan and/or oil filter (possibly indicating internal engine damage).
Malfunctioning oil pump pressure relief valve.
Excessive bearing clearance and/or bearing damage. Refer to Crankshaft and Bearing Cleaning and Inspection and Camshaft and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
Cracked, porous, or restricted oil galleries.
Oil gallery plugs missing or incorrectly installed. Refer to Engine Block Plug Installation. See: Service and Repair\Overhaul
10-18-2015, 10:26 PM
#20
As i said the pressure was within spec at filter.... Dam near non existant at the vlom..... Didnt write down psi and not the last oil pressure test ive done since..... Before i pull trigger on doing this i am going to verify what i remember pressures being...... But as stated id like to do this on the cheap even getting used parts where i can( 4.8 valey cover, lifter trays, cam etc) lifters, gaskets, head bolts etc will get new...