shawn57nomad

Looking for clarification on pushrod length using Morel 6504 lifters, LS3 springs/retainers/locks and BTR Stg2 V2 Truck cam. Wonder how my wife will like this thing. Any ideas if 7.4" pushrods are correct? Maybe I'm thick headed and it's one of those it's so simple it makes me stupid kind of deals but I thought I'd ask.
Truck is getting a fresh and clean top end (L76 6.0)

New stock pushrod on top of #1 intake pushrod (It's a tad bent). I couldn't pull it out with my fingers but a quick bite with the old Knipex amd out it came!

Cam card

RPO sticker in glovebox. 4.10 gears, G80, 4L70E
and have all parts in hand and tools just need the time. Truck was in storage for 2-1/2 years has typically Midwest rear leading fender rust so it'll go to paint in the next 12 months after the shakedown mechanically. It had a dead AFM lifter on #1 & #7, with 224k on the clock. Seller had no clue as he's a fast-mouthed slow-brained greasy car salesman, hence $3,500!
I have all the special pullers, seal alignment tools, etcetera. (Industrial mechanic by trade- Gas/steam turbines, heavy machinery...)
Parts on hand: (am I missing anything besides pushrods?)
-ARP head studs, cam bolts, header studs, damper bolt
-LS3 Blue springs, stock locks and retainers
-BTR Stg2 V2 Truck cam (will be my wife's DD)
-New water pump kit
-New LS oil pump
-IWIS timing chain
-LS2 timing cover & VLOM
-Crank and 4x cam sprockets
-LS9 head gaskets
-FelPro intake gaskets
-Plugs, wires, injectors
-New stock damper/balancer
-Trunion upgrade
-Billet barbell
-Heads freshened
-DOD/AFM/VVT full delete

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

Partially because I'm cheap....but if it's a daily driver, why the ARP head studs, crank bolt, trunnion upgrade, and LS9 head gaskets? I'm assuming that delete kit comes with lifters and guides? The heads, you can get a set of 862 heads off eBay for $400 ready to bolt on. You can sell the 823 or 821 heads with rockers quite a bit more. This comment goes back to the "daily driver" thing. Pick up the bottom end moving 4500lb around.

shawn57nomad

drspencer the reason for the uptick in parts is my buy once cry once theory has held true in reliability in the past and in relation to my job. The studs were a misprint on Fleabay that the seller honored as well as the other ARP hardware. I don't think I was clear in my initial post that the truck is equipped with the 6.0 L76 truck motor.

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

Although 7.400" IS typical, you really are going to have to measure to really know. And yep, got the late model 6.0 part, but just throwing the cathedral port out there to pick up some bottom end and ease the cost a little bit.

shawn57nomad

Thanks Doc! I've got access to a set of cathedrals but we'll go this route first and see what happens. Any suggestions on a tune with given cam spec?

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

There is no plug and go tune for what you have. It'll have to be done at a shop or by someone with a tuner using a wideband o2 sensor.

shawn57nomad

Thanks FFDP for the heads up. Hopefully it'll be drivable for a week or so.

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

NO, it won't be driveable because the DoD is still programmed into the factory tune. It'll run on 4 cylinders until it's tuned out. Get yourself HP Tuners and uncheck the box for DoD, THEN take it to a tuner for the rest of the adjustments.

95wannabe

iTrader: (18)

Noticed the new oil pump on your list. Is this just piece of mind or is a different pump required when deleting AFM/DOD?
Thanks

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

This is just for peace of mind. I swapped the gear only on my 5.3. The pump is working just fine, didn't wanna dick with the o-ring, pulling the pan, lining up the pump...all that good stuff....