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07 Hummer H2 starter issue
when I turn the key it feels like the starter is barely trying to turn as if the battery was almost dead it's not batterys at 12.5VDC, I'm H2 has 240K miles. battery terminals appear clean from outside view.
w/ pass. wheeI still on (H2 is in backyard) was able to clip multimeter to the starters constant 12VDC terminal an am getting 12VDC, wasn't able to reach or even see the 12VDC trigger terminal.
before I order a remaned starter,
if I remove the wheel well will I be able to reach the starters trigger to see if it gets 12VDC when turning the ignition key?
can I swap park lamps relay w starter relay an expect starter to turn engine over?
can the starter be removed from the wheel well?
or do I have to go in from the bottom to swap the starter?
I'm thinking the bar rear skid plate must be removed to remove an replace starter?
I watched a 2500 truck video an he removed an replaced the starter from the pass. side wheel well. so is this R&R possiable w/ the H2s?I'd like to do the least amount of crawling under the H2 from the pass side the stepbar is in the way.I do have 6ton jack stands but nothing right now to place them on.
no clicks at starter, no security lock light on dash all spade fuses have continuity
I cleaned the 2 grounds on driverside front bumper.
the starter has been working fine however I rarely drive this H2
I have read these starters sometime stick maybe
should I try to bypass the silinoids 12VDC trigger w/ a screwdriver in hope of unsticking it's internals? like this
I think 12.5V is good, but just a "tiny" bit low. You can take your battery to the local parts stores and have them charge it for you.
To really determine your cables' current carrying capacity, you need to perform a "voltage drop test." Look up YT videos on how to do this. Often, the cables look fine and pass the "visual test," but can fail the voltage drop test, especially in the rustbelt regions.
Yes, you can swap those relays w/o any issues. Also, they are designed such that the terminal orientation doesn't matter.
Yes, if you jump the terminals on the solenoid, it will cause the starter to crank.
update: I kindof knew it was time for a new siliniod when I attempted to unscrew the triggers terminals nut the stud post snapped same w/ the 12VDC constant terminal. gonna be a pita to remove the snapped post inside the power cables lug.
broken off terminals
starter testing procedure I used plus testing for the constant 12VDC.will document for my notebook.
additionaley I didn't see a need to remove the oil capcity sensor at block,either skid protector as a ytuber mentioned removing this stuff. I do know it's always easier to remove than replace hopefully it's doable to replace same as removing.
I am a true backyard shade treeer
I have the 6ton jackstand just behind the recovery hook. place on 1/4" thick aluminum plate 2x4s under 3ton jack wheels.
I assume since both terminals are snapped off the silinoid this starter has no core value so I'm forced to replace w/ new.
maybe this or could it be overpriced
maybe I could get by w/ this el cheapo $66. it has much better reviews. I bet there selling this a autozone.
The starter still has core value. The solenoid - which is the correct spelling - is only a small part of that, and they replace it during a rebuild anyway.
woopsie on the spelling
what do you think about the el cheapo starter? this is not easy remove an replace bc the frame is so close.
technically I just need the solenoid is it available on it's own however this starter appears to be original w/ 240K miles.
thanks RB04Av
Last edited by thebrain; Mar 24, 2026 at 03:49 PM.
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update el cheapo starter cranked just fine.I think it could have a one year warrenty.
12VDC trigger cable routing under starter doesn't seam correct?
I didn't take image of the before.
the heat shield protected tape is less than a half inch from starter body.please advice on this cable being so close to starter an thanks.
Not sure what that cable is. Just being close to the starter though, as long as it's properly insulated like factory wiring generally is, should be fine. You could maybe get a lined clamp and fasten it to the starter with one of those bolts on the back, or maybe just put some split loom over it, if you're worried about it.
Not sure what that cable is. Just being close to the starter though, as long as it's properly insulated like factory wiring generally is, should be fine. You could maybe get a lined clamp and fasten it to the starter with one of those bolts on the back, or maybe just put some split loom over it, if you're worried about it.
that cable is.the 12VDC ignition trigger. seams to close to starter.