AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

Clean the positive battery cable terminals at the starter, and both cable ends on the battery.

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

unplugging the ground for a bit helped it start. At first it wouldn't crank because it didn't think i was in Park. then when it did start it ran real rough.
running fine now tho. Still need to replace the wires that plug into the neutral switch as they don't register all the time.

It reads Park, revers, and Drive. It will only read Park when I key on. So if i put it in park after driving it won't register until i key back on.

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

I had a similar issue with a truck after a trans shop did a rebuild. Looked like they had grabbed the PRNDL switch harness and connector with pliers and pulled/yanked on it until it unplugged, instead of heating the connector. Well, they damaged 3 wires. The insulation looked okay, but the copper strands inside were intermittent open-circuit. Ater a quick trip to the dealer for new pins, was able to remove the damaged wire, and re-pin the connector.

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

Yea I have the part numbers around here somewhere to just solder in completely new plugs. not sure how much wire it will come with but plenty. Just use some solder and heatwrap and it'll hopefully take care of the prob

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

Good luck on it. Post up your results.

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

Josh your how old and still playin in water puddles..

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

Puddle jumping is an ageless sport.

It keeps acting up where it won't recognize park right away and if it does it won't run very well and just have to keep trying. Gonna try to get up early tomorrow and hopefully the dealership will have the plugs in stock. Will let you know if that works.
I know there are a couple people online with a similar gear display problem

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

It's real common to have problems with the connections at the PRNDL after trans swaps, that connector has a sort of glue/sealer in it or something like that. I plan to leave mine connected and just unbolt it from the trans and let it hang when I swap my trans

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

there's 1 bolt behind the plugs that would be really hard to get to. Keep that in mind. As long as you heat them up with a torch using a heat tip they come right out.

On my way to buy the new plugs but here's the codes i'm getting right now.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes
P0102 "Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P1518 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Serial Data Circuit" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P0102 "Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low" EPA Pending ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P0200 "Injector Control Circuit" EPA Pending ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P1518 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Serial Data Circuit" EPA Pending ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P0102 "Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low" PHC ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P0200 "Injector Control Circuit" P ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
P1518 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Serial Data Circuit" MH ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
C0237 "Traction Control System (TCS) Throttle Position Signal" H ($29) "Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)"
B2575 "(Left or generic) Headlamp Control Circuit" H ($40) "Body Control Module (BCM) or Dash Integration Module (DIM)"
B2600 "Daytime Running Lamp Control {single or 1} (left or system) Circuit" H ($40) "Body Control Module (BCM) or Dash Integration Module (DIM)"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($40) "Body Control Module (BCM) or Dash Integration Module (DIM)"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($58) "Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($60) "Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($98) "HVAC Control Module"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($A0) "Driver Door Module (DDM)"
U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($A1) "Front Passenger Door Module (FPDM)"

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Considering all of those codes and the info you've provided about running through puddles, I'd say that there's water in a connector somewhere that's common to all of those circuits. Kent makes a great electrical contact cleaner, or I'd find something similar if you can find the connector(s)/junction block in question, and clean the water and corrosion out of there.

*EDIT* :off topic: thanks for the info about the bolt behind the connector...I've read of guys doing it the way I plan, but from your expeience Joshua, is it possible to get to that bolt with the connector plugged in: