Stainless steel hard lines
#21
I had the wife pumping the pedal and I bled them. I had one of those power bleeders that clamps onto the master, but it was a leaking mess so I just do it the old fashioned way with clear tubing and a Gatorade bottle lol.
My rear calipers were also on the wrong side from the previous owner so I had to swap them side to side but the bleeders were still good.
My rear calipers were also on the wrong side from the previous owner so I had to swap them side to side but the bleeders were still good.
#23
The ni-copp alloy lines are the way to go. I've probly replumbed 20 gm fullsizes in this stuff and it is really easy to work with. I can do a pickup in about 5 hours whereas a tahoe is a little bit more cramped and takes about 6-8 hours. A good flaring tool makes a big difference as well. I either use my mastercool flaring kit or a blue point compact flaring set. The ni-copp is really flexible and easy to contour around the frame.
#24
The ni-copp alloy lines are the way to go. I've probly replumbed 20 gm fullsizes in this stuff and it is really easy to work with. I can do a pickup in about 5 hours whereas a tahoe is a little bit more cramped and takes about 6-8 hours. A good flaring tool makes a big difference as well. I either use my mastercool flaring kit or a blue point compact flaring set. The ni-copp is really flexible and easy to contour around the frame.
#25
My local parts store. If yours doesn't sell rolls of them I believe jegs does. The stuff I use is Ni-Copp part number cnc-425. Also don't forget to order the abs block fittings as they're not super common. They're edelmann part number 121045.
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