Silverado A/C Guru's INSIDE
#11
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 7
From: Central Kentucky
Woot got it.
After a couple more times of evacuating it and replacing the orifice tube. Just making sure to get all the crud out that I could. Last one was clean. The A/C clutch still wouldn't cycle on it's own.
Pulled the fuses to the HVAC in the cab. Nothing.
Did a bunch of reading and and the HVAC module in the cab basically controls it all. Lots of references in the manual to scanning the HVAC module with a Tech 2. Don't have one so I just unhooked the battery for a couple minutes. TADA working like a charm.
After a couple more times of evacuating it and replacing the orifice tube. Just making sure to get all the crud out that I could. Last one was clean. The A/C clutch still wouldn't cycle on it's own.
Pulled the fuses to the HVAC in the cab. Nothing.
Did a bunch of reading and and the HVAC module in the cab basically controls it all. Lots of references in the manual to scanning the HVAC module with a Tech 2. Don't have one so I just unhooked the battery for a couple minutes. TADA working like a charm.
#13
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 7
From: Central Kentucky
Yeah my sentiments.... now. Anytime something starts acting funny on the damn thing now first thing I'm going to do is unhook the battery. Put a big red button somewhere on the dash that does it. Title it "Reset"
#16
#17
A little late but sometimes when your freon is low and the compressor cycles too often in a certain amount of time the computer will shut down the compressor. Even if you fill it back up with freon it still will not work. You have to disconnect the battery and it will reset. Glad you found it.
#18
I'm going to hijack this thread becasue I think KySilverado is done with it.
On the back of the compressor is the purple pressure switch. Well mine is broke where the 2 pin wire connecter snaps on, so my wires pop off under WOT ( talk about TQ :p ) So anyway I went and bought a new switch for $20.
I opened the box and got a snap ring and a rubber O ring. Am I right in assuming I have to evacuate the system to change this sensor?
Can I do it mounted to the block or do I need to pop it loose so the compressor can hang down some to get the snap ring in?
What a PITA.
On the back of the compressor is the purple pressure switch. Well mine is broke where the 2 pin wire connecter snaps on, so my wires pop off under WOT ( talk about TQ :p ) So anyway I went and bought a new switch for $20.
I opened the box and got a snap ring and a rubber O ring. Am I right in assuming I have to evacuate the system to change this sensor?
Can I do it mounted to the block or do I need to pop it loose so the compressor can hang down some to get the snap ring in?
What a PITA.
Last edited by 1SlowHoe; Jun 11, 2010 at 08:12 PM.
#19
I'm going to hijack this thread becasue I think KySilverado is done with it.
On the back of the compressor is the purple pressure switch. Well mine is broke where the 2 pin wire connecter snaps on, so my wires pop off under WOT ( talk about TQ :p ) So anyway I went and bought a new switch for $20.
I opened the box and got a snap ring and a rubber O ring. Am I right in assuming I have to evacuate the system to change this sensor?
Can I do it mounted to the block or do I need to pop it loose so the compressor can hang down some to get the snap ring in?
What a PITA.

On the back of the compressor is the purple pressure switch. Well mine is broke where the 2 pin wire connecter snaps on, so my wires pop off under WOT ( talk about TQ :p ) So anyway I went and bought a new switch for $20.
I opened the box and got a snap ring and a rubber O ring. Am I right in assuming I have to evacuate the system to change this sensor?
Can I do it mounted to the block or do I need to pop it loose so the compressor can hang down some to get the snap ring in?
What a PITA.







