Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

LOL! You are a bit late on the testing Hyde. We found the limits of these motors on nitrous back in '99. Several KABOOMS were plenty enough to learn from. You just helped to prove those limits were the same as back then <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Spend some cash and build a big motor. You won't miss the nitrous, and the power will be there all the time.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I sprayed 4 to 5 10lbs bottles a weekend for about 2 months</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do the math:
4 to 5 bottle refills = $30/refill
4.5 bottles per week, for two months = $1080

$1080 in two months? And a blown motor? Imagine if the motor had lasted for 12 months, = $6,480

I used to be a bottle junkie too, it was much cheaper and more enjoyable to have the power 100% of the time and be reliable. Nitrous is only "cheap" if used conservatively.

Tony

oxidizr

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">...she finally bit the bullet. She broke a couple of rods...</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">OUCH!

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I can build what i want for a third of what it would cost to do a iron block. And i will save about a hundred pounds in the front using an ls1.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't know how your going to build a 5.7L AL cheaper than a 6.0L FE. I priced both my options and got my desired combo for nearly $4k less from the 6.0L. I do like the benefits of the AL weight but a Glastek 2" Fiberglass hood and some minor engine compartment # redux will give you the same benefit but with the reliabilty of the FE block.

Richard

<small>[ July 08, 2002, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: oxidizr ]</small>

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Ok, Hyde - So you were spraying 150+. What brand kit (NX, TNT) and what size jets were you using? What other mods do you have besides nitrous?

Tony - what seems to be the magical number here (for keeping the bottom end safe)? Obviously a 150 shot on a stock vehicle isn't the same as on a heads, cam, vehicle with all the bolt ons. So at what point do these engines start giving up?

Richard

SportVortech

(writes down)
"fourrrr......tooooo.............fiveeeeee......bo ttles......a weeeeeeekend, is noooo noooo"

I'm curious as hell to see if they replace that motor......

Maxmumboom

God Damn Piston Slap.

Vortech5300

Someone say Hayabusa? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

oxidizr

iTrader: (4)

Richard

The poweradder here is to blame. Low RPM cylinder pressures have to be through the roof for a stock converter vehicle to to produce 540+ ft-lbs to the wheels (18% parasitic = 750 ft-lbs at the flywheel.) Couple that with the amount force needed move 4500 lbs from a stop, you have an incredible load on the components. When using street tires much of that load is shed when the tires break loose. When using a "sticky" tire these factors are emphasized not deminished.

At low rpm the valve events are more true to spec and tend to hold cylinder pressure...as rpm increases the valve events become less precise and fuel burn rate becomes a greater influence (why we need ignition advance) and other factors such as spring seat pressure and valve acceleration become larger factors in maintaining dynamic compression. These high rpm valve phenominons can contribute to float which will effect cam overlap thus bleeding off some pressure.

When seeking out power through H/C you are not going to get the linear torque spike (not that it isn't desirable) but more progressive power. You must also consider that agressive HP cams which stretch longer rpm tend to produce lower torque numbers due to the long duration periods and extended overlap periods. At low rpm these tend to bleed cylinder pressure lowering dynamic compression at that rpm.

All in all, if your looking to produce 400-450 RWHP on the motor you will not suffer the same/similar longevity issues, as more likely than not a H/C combo at this power level is only going to produce as much torque as HP not 20% more as is the case with nitrous.

I feel the stock components should have no problem supporting 450 RWHP / 450 RWTQ n/a. If I had not come accross such a good deal on the 6.0L motor, I would have a agressive H/C (SII ls6 heads and 230 duration cam) on stock 5.3L bottom end truck right now but I was in good fortune to come accross the deal I did.

Just some thoughts...

Richard

<small>[ July 08, 2002, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: oxidizr ]</small>

hyde

Tony...I give it to you...Your The Man...lol Well those figures are off a bit but i really see your point. I like little motors and big blowers...Its always there too. I can't afford to spend 12000 to 15000 on a 422 or 434 when i only paid 23000 for the truck...I would rather just build a race car, for the same amount... <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />
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CHEAP UNCLE MIKES OFF DUTY CONCEALMENT INSIDE

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Or better yet, spend that $12000 for a Hayabusa to put in the back of that truck. 9s with a warranty!

I plan on adding a blower to my truck. Low maintenance, higher towing capacity, power whenever I want it, and immediate gains in power.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

hyde

Got a 2001 Busa, All polished to use at my diposal...Its a clients Bike...lol
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Uruguayan Recipes