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How bad am I getting ripped off?

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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 02:37 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jpodell
The plug next to the firewall on the passenger side is a pain. You may be able to get it out with a universal joint for your socket. I had to remove the heat shield that was in my way.
its much easier if you take that one off by removing the front passenger wheel and going through there instead of going from under the hood

Last edited by avnger21; Jan 2, 2011 at 02:38 AM. Reason: had to type more
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #22  
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Lol, thanks for the info guys. Wish I was closer to more of you. There aren't a lot of folks from the West TN area on here. Need somebody to school me on this stuff.

I'm gonna clean my throttle body one afternoon this week. Any pluses/minuses to removing the throttle body before cleaning it? If it will REALLY help, I will. If it is a lot of work for not much more benefit, I'll probably leave it attached.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by slpsilverado
I'm gonna clean my throttle body one afternoon this week. Any pluses/minuses to removing the throttle body before cleaning it? If it will REALLY help, I will. If it is a lot of work for not much more benefit, I'll probably leave it attached.
Any thoughts on this?



Also, I found a guy locally who says he'll do my plugs/wires for $125 installed, AND show me how to do it. I'm going with that.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #24  
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Your wires may be a pain to get off, mine were stuck on to the plugs pretty good. Get some dielectric grease and squirt some in each end of the plug wire before reassembly. Remember pull the boot not the wire! The bottom of the boots have a hex shape. I put a wrench on them and twist the boot to help get them unstuck and come off easier. Remember, the boot not the wire. Anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs is your friend too.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #25  
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Recap,

Twist boots to free them from sticking before trying to remove.

Use Berrymans B-12 to clean TB once its removed. This stuff is INTENSE! DONOT get it in YOUR EYES! if you do immeditaly run blinded to water and flush them. It will also burn the back of your hands very well so be rady to wash hands. DONOT wear rubber gloves it will melt them to your skin!
B-12 will remove ALL carbon and oil buildup VERY EASY! no scrubbing needed. B-12 is the best cleaner avalible to public.

While TB is off. Do the coolant bypass mod. also remove gold blocking plate on back of throttle body blade if you have one.

Look up in you intake manifold, if its really nasty, use rag soaked in B-12 to clean it out.

Before attempting plug #1 bend that power distribution block back forward away from plug #1 for easy access. Also unplug the water temp sensor plug. This helps to keep from breaking it off while you cuss at boot #1 for not coming off easy.

If steering shaft is in the way, unbolt it and slide it out of the way, foe easy access to plugs #3-7.

Use only a LIGHT amount of antiseize on plug threads, to mutch and it melts and runs down onto plug ground strap and burns out plug.
Use silicone greese inside wire boots to keep them from ever sticking again.
Buy MSD red superconductor wires for 76$ They will last the lifetime of the vehical where as OEM replacements will not.

Buy NGK TR6 plugs They run cooler than TR5's and are alil more detonation proof for those really hot days and crappy fuel. they CHEAP as heck also, under 2$ each.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #26  
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Thanks for the tips!

Originally Posted by ezdaar
Use Berrymans B-12 to clean TB once its removed. This stuff is INTENSE! DONOT get it in YOUR EYES! if you do immeditaly run blinded to water and flush them. It will also burn the back of your hands very well so be rady to wash hands. DONOT wear rubber gloves it will melt them to your skin!
B-12 will remove ALL carbon and oil buildup VERY EASY! no scrubbing needed. B-12 is the best cleaner avalible to public.
Good grief, where do you buy this stuff? Chernobyl? Don't know if I have a Hazmat suit laying around!


Originally Posted by ezdaar
While TB is off. Do the coolant bypass mod. also remove gold blocking plate on back of throttle body blade if you have one.
Elaborate. I have no idea what you are talking about.


Originally Posted by ezdaar
Buy MSD red superconductor wires for 76$ They will last the lifetime of the vehical where as OEM replacements will not.
Part number or website? Like I said, I'm new to all of this.


Originally Posted by ezdaar
Buy NGK TR6 plugs They run cooler than TR5's and are alil more detonation proof for those really hot days and crappy fuel. they CHEAP as heck also, under 2$ each.
I was told to use OEM plugs. Are these OEM?
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #27  
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Coolant bypass mod involves taking the rubber hose on the left of the TB when facing the engine carrying coolant and bypassing it running through the TB and connecting directly to the engine (forget where exactly it connects). Toss the unused hose that was going from the TB to the engine in the trash.

Simply, the goal is to avoid hot coolant running through the TB, in theory heating up the TB and thus the incoming air.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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And your plug wires are most likely fine, but MSD 32829 would be what you want. Amazon has them for $62.59 shipped. And TR55's are probably the most commonly used/recommended stock replacement plugs on the forum.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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B-12
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=525295

MSD wires
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true

The plugs are just cheap alternatives to the more expensive platnum plugs.
Beshure to gapp them at 40 NOT 60! 60 gives random missfire code.
Go to Orileys and just tellem you want 8 NGK TR6 plugs.

Coolant bypass mod is simple.
On bottom of TB there are 2 hoses. one long hose on left side going to radiator, one small hose on right going to coolant crossover tube.
You want to completly remove short hose and plug the long hose into the crossover pipe. This bypasses the TB. It keeps hot coolant from heating the TB.

Last edited by ezdaar; Jan 4, 2011 at 04:56 PM. Reason: LOL, you guys beat me to the punch, took me awhile to write my post being sneaky at work..
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ezdaar
The plugs are just cheap alternatives to the more expensive platnum plugs.
Beshure to gapp them at 40 NOT 60! 60 gives random missfire code.
Go to Orileys and just tellem you want 8 NGK TR6 plugs.
No, gap them to .055, which is what they come straight out of the box (but I always double check). And you want TR55's, NOT TR6's, those are a step colder and are for FI engines, not N/A.
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