1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

yes we rezeroed it before starting to log but we lost the log when we shut down the engine without saving in case there was an oil fire with no water in sight

Quik

iTrader: (7)

what is your EQ ratio vs RPM value?

you dont always need timing added when you set the target value. youll get more power out of setup with a better target value then you will to much timing. and thats alot of timing for such little cam. try setting the target to a leaner number and then add or reduce timing thru whole range

i had 32* @ wot before i set target value to 13.0 and now only have 27* or 28* with a average of 13.0 across my wideband at WOT and that is at 6700 shift points also

just a thought

Quik

iTrader: (7)

thats wierd cause i have shut down my truck and two fbodys without saving and didnt lose it. as long as you do save it before reconnecting.

i dont always save my files i sometimes just play them back and then run another log

and i zero my trims during start up as the scanner is logging this way you see whats going on sometimes

i encounterd a car's trims that were so bad[someone fucked this cars tune up badly] that as soon as you started the car they would peg and then toss a lean code right off the bat. you could zero them but would quickly rise. that car took awhile of playing around to get it right and now its around the 5 range for the LTs

1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

yea see im not tuning my own truck so all this stuff just makes me feel like and idiot cuz i have NO idea what ayou are talkin about pretty much except for what i have said. we are gonna log for abotu 75 minutes through all different speeds and rpms tonight to get the VE table down and then like 30 minutes for the MAF and then hopefully we can get the fuel trims as close to 0 as possible

Quik

iTrader: (7)

do you have HPT? if so go into engine, go to fuel control go to PE go to EQ ratio vs RPM and look at the numbers you see

then put each number against 14.628 or 14.7 and youll get your target A/F for ex... 14.7 / by 1.14 = 12.89. now you go off your wide band or if you dont have one your amount of KR and your 02 readings to see how your running at WOT

also when you look at this number chart go into the boxes above and look for the 2D graph this will show you how sloppy your A/F curve is. mine is nice and smooth

1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

no i dont have HPT but my tuner does, ill mention this to him but before my LT's, my afr was nice and smooth but it was just a little too lean. sometime this week im gonna get a bung welded on because my tuner has a wideband handheld LM-1 but we cant do it to my truck cuz it doesnt have a bung. at 31* i dont have any KR at all so i think im good there i trust charlie and he has seemed to do great work so far so ill let him take care of everything.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

looking at you sig you dont need those injectors. with my svos im only at 70% duty at WOT

aso for the bung you dont nesecary need it. you can use your existing bung and just remove your Narrow band 02 and wire up a wideband 02 to work with the truck and the wideband gauge or monitor. but this would be a permanent thing.

yes you might not have KR but what is your target A/F? you can run around 30* on stock target A/F but once you lean that number out and then dial in timing youll gain power through out the curve

just a thought

its not always about WOT power, you can make more power thoughout the curve with the right tuning. i did a base tune and it was pretty fair then went and log and log and log and tweaked as i need and now i run stronger thought the entire range then i did with just WOT along with my mpg is at 18 with light driving and my setup

1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

yea i know its all about the power under the curve, im planning on buying a wideband LC1 and just getting hte bung welded in about 10 inches after the collectors. i know i dont need those injecotrs but right now at WOT 6400rpm i get to 100%IDC and i figure i need to replace the injectors cuz thats a bit high i know its just for a few seconds but still. plus eventually ill be FI and then the injectors will be needed anyways. im just looking for some bigger injectors that are direct fit with no installation kit or shimming required. i think my target AFR is 13:1 or something but i wont be able to fully get that settled in until i have the wideband bung. right now the truck runs real strong and the main thing we need to take care of is thie VE table and MAF table so upon ignition when the STFT are trying to be relearned for the first few seconds, it wont die without reving initially. apparently ARD is a terrible tuning place, or so i have come to learn

Quik

iTrader: (7)

you can tune without a wideband but you need to read 02 readings and other htings. i heard that many times i plan on going FI or this and that and ppl get oversize injectors they dont need and is wasted money. get what you need now, injectors arent that pricey compared to a motor.

1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

are you saying new injectors could mess up my motor? or you are saying a wideband should be purchased before trhe injectors because i need that. i know i need a wideband, preachin to the choir here but i just havent gotten around to welding in the bung yet. i will son enough and until then we are gonna run a little richer than leaner for safety sake. i know i will be getting a wideband and wont get my AFR down exactly right without it or until it so right now im just going by the narrow band millivolts which as accurate as we can get right now...