Personally I think its all in the amp
I had a buddy that had a 12" 1000watt Sony Xplod sub with a nice amp and that mf'er thumped its **** off... even with my cheapy Lightning Audio 2 10's and a 300watt amp it thumped

 

I'd stick with the Kickers you'll be happy. Try some L7's! I have 2- L7 8 inch subs in mine and they sound awesome. I run them off a Kicker 800.2.

 

Only problem with L7s is they lack low bass. One of the guys at my shop is a Kicker fan and recently replaces his L7s with 13w6s and was amazed at the difference. But if just loud is your thing then yeah, they are great subs

 

I've never been able to blow an MTX, even by plugging it into a wall outlet, best I was able to do was pull the surround loose.

I like the Infinity Kappa Perfects for big power aluminum cone subs though.

 

F8LPONY...

That's why I have JL amps. They are just badass. They put out the same power at like 11v to 14.5v and same power regardless of ohm load. Apparently the guys that designed the Xtant amps...also did the JL ones.

Everything they make it top notch and great for the money. Even if I had an endless supply from my money tree, I don't think I'd requre a more expensive brand. I've listened to a lot of audio before I purchased and am VERY pleased with the JL. The sound is what I like.

 

JL audio Ive got 2 JL audio 12w3's on a JL 500/1 and they

 

You need more power on those W3s! I have a single 500/1 on one 12W3v2 and it's badass!

 

I think the biggest thing us truck guys, especially the RC trucks, have going against us is the lack of room for a bigger box. I know my Kicker Comp VR's start clipping when it gets low, but I also have some relativly small boxes, at only .88 cubes per speaker. I think they would really do well with 1.25 - 1.5, but there just isn't the room.

I like MTX also. I had a pair of MTX 4k's on my MTX Thunder 2800 or something like that, I know it was huge. It was the biggest one in the standard lineup. I know at 12 volts it was advertised to be putting out 800 watts. I think at running voltage it was putting out well over that. Anyways ... I had a box with 1.5 per side. Well .. the Thunder4k's didn't last long at all. I stepped up to the older style Thunder 5000's and they lasted a while until I was messing with it one day and just overheated them. The coils just melted. I then got some Polk db's. They weren't the MTX's, but they sounded nice too. If I would lay the seat down, pop the trunk, roll the windows down and open the doors, I could stand in front of the car and feel the ground shake ... no ****. The Polk's wouldn't do it as good, but you could still feel it in front of the car.

 

HitMan, Flyer, you guys got the right idea.

Check to make sure what your amplifier puts out at 12-13 volts because our trucks with crappy alternators and even decent ones usually wont put out the 14.4 volts (when your stereo is cranked up) that alot of manufactures advertize their amps power at. It is so phoney the way they do it that it makes me sick. LOL

Most of the big expensive brands out there are pretty much dead on when they advertize their amps. I run JL Audio amps in mine because bang for buck they are great. I also tried out the new Precision Power amps at my shop and sound quality is great on them arguably better than the JL. I really wanna see some of the new MTX stuff because they used to be total crap but they have come a long ways and I see great reviews on that monster subwoofer of theirs


I been selling high end car audio for 9years now. I don't know everything but I know the basic principles

 

Dunno about other brands, but my alpine amps have always come with a test sheet for each amp showing what its actual tested output was.