battery relocation question...
#22
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Georgia
gonna be using something like these to mount near the existing battery location to connect all existing wiring and then just run a positive lead from the new location to it for power...any thoughts or other ideas?










Last edited by Superado; Aug 8, 2007 at 10:19 PM.
#23
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Georgia
If I choose the one w/ a fuse, I would use like a 30 amp fuse I think...
I believe GM made one similar to that as well...I know we sell the 30 amp fuses at O'Reilly...
I believe GM made one similar to that as well...I know we sell the 30 amp fuses at O'Reilly...
Last edited by Superado; Aug 10, 2007 at 07:21 AM.
#26
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Georgia
picked up one (shown above in last post) yesterday...doesn't seem to be made as well as the marine ones shown a few posts back...not sure if I want to use it...I may be able to use the one that the stereo, starter and alternator are connected to currently...don't know why I didn't think of that first...
If each accessory (stereo & electric fans) has an in-line fuse, should I need a fuse in the distribution block between battery and accessories as well?
If each accessory (stereo & electric fans) has an in-line fuse, should I need a fuse in the distribution block between battery and accessories as well?
#27
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Georgia
After thinking a bit more about it, I believe I can re-use the distribution block currently used between the starter, stereo and alternator.
After moving the battery, I think I can re-use the current negative cable to ground the battery in it's new location...re-use the short positive cable currently connected from distribution block to starter as power directly from battery in new location to starter...leave stereo and alternator connected to current distribution block and add the fuse box and electric fans to it as well...then just run a positive cable from the passenger side battery location to the distribution block...
After moving the battery, I think I can re-use the current negative cable to ground the battery in it's new location...re-use the short positive cable currently connected from distribution block to starter as power directly from battery in new location to starter...leave stereo and alternator connected to current distribution block and add the fuse box and electric fans to it as well...then just run a positive cable from the passenger side battery location to the distribution block...
#29
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Georgia
well...13 months later...I'm back on this...
battery tray IS the only thing needed...as BURLS1 posted...bracket is already stock on the firewall...I will be returning that piece...
battery hold downs are reused on the new tray...however...the hold down bolt does contact one of the a/c lines, so I'm gonna have to put a piece of hose or something around the a/c line to keep from rubbing a hole in it...
got the battery moved...gonna finish wiring it up today hopefully...
decided to reuse the original negative (ground) cable that grounds in two places...block and frame...
using a 1/0 cable from battery to original red junction box...
then removing the original short 4 gauge wire going to the fuse/relay center that was tied into the positive battery cable and using the end of the 2 gauge(?) starter cable (that did go to the battery) to power the fuse/relay center by adding a terminal...
battery tray IS the only thing needed...as BURLS1 posted...bracket is already stock on the firewall...I will be returning that piece...
battery hold downs are reused on the new tray...however...the hold down bolt does contact one of the a/c lines, so I'm gonna have to put a piece of hose or something around the a/c line to keep from rubbing a hole in it...
got the battery moved...gonna finish wiring it up today hopefully...
decided to reuse the original negative (ground) cable that grounds in two places...block and frame...
using a 1/0 cable from battery to original red junction box...
then removing the original short 4 gauge wire going to the fuse/relay center that was tied into the positive battery cable and using the end of the 2 gauge(?) starter cable (that did go to the battery) to power the fuse/relay center by adding a terminal...
Last edited by Superado; Jul 20, 2008 at 02:02 PM.




