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I have had my AC leak from this same spot 4 times now. The first three fixes were replacing the line with an OEM line. Within about 6months they would leak again around the press fit seam where this line meets the connector block. 6 months ago I welded the seam with a very solid bead, today it lost pressure again and is very obviously leaking from that same area. I have not removed the line yet to inspect it up close but I cleaned the area and got my face as close as possible, and I see no hole, or crack where the bubble is appearing from in the video.
I have had my AC leak from this same spot 4 times now. The first three fixes were replacing the line with an OEM line. Within about 6months they would leak again around the press fit seam where this line meets the connector block. 6 months ago I welded the seam with a very solid bead, today it lost pressure again and is very obviously leaking from that same area. I have not removed the line yet to inspect it up close but I cleaned the area and got my face as close as possible, and I see no hole, or crack where the bubble is appearing from in the video.
That's interesting.... I wonder if it has any thing to do with Clutch Dumps?
There was a fairly aggressive leave from a light yesterday morning shortly before I got to work and the AC quit so it’s possible. I imagine guys with drag radials and much more power leave harder than this thing ever could and so why don’t theirs continually break?
Is it a motor jumping around problem? Are the rubber flex sections of the line not enough to help reduce the shock load?
Gonna put a go pro under the hood this weekend and give it hell see if it’s flopping. If so I guess atomic poly mounts are in its future.
I find it strange the 408 5spd Denali which gets 4H launched often never had this problem, it’s only had atomic mounts for about a year and a half. Before that was stock rubber just like my Tahoe has.
There was a fairly aggressive leave from a light yesterday morning shortly before I got to work and the AC quit so it’s possible. I imagine guys with drag radials and much more power leave harder than this thing ever could and so why don’t theirs continually break?
Is it a motor jumping around problem? Are the rubber flex sections of the line not enough to help reduce the shock load?
Gonna put a go pro under the hood this weekend and give it hell see if it’s flopping. If so I guess atomic poly mounts are in its future.
I find it strange the 408 5spd Denali which gets 4H launched often never had this problem, it’s only had atomic mounts for about a year and a half. Before that was stock rubber just like my Tahoe has.
The difference is, you actually use the AC. Especial while Clutch dumping...
Is the Denali an SUV or Truck Version that was converted to 5 speed???
So what your saying is I should get a 2step and launch off the 2 step from now on. While also lowering the compressor disable rpm setting below the 2step rpm so the compressor will be off while clutch dumping?
Also what kind of maniac isn’t using their AC in the staging lane, burnout box, and at the tree when racing? After all, research has shown ball sweat dripping down your butt crack can slow reaction times, cause miss shifts, and ultimately cause race losses.
The 408 Denali is a Yukon with rear AC like mine and yes is NV4500 swapped. It’s the one my buddy @slipsecond bought from a super cool dude named @2002_Z28_Six_Speed. back before the Rona decimated the earth. The only difference between his and mine is his has atomic poly mounts now and mines still rocking newer rubber oems. He’s never had an AC issue even before he did the poly mounts and only did them because the motor was out and why not. I will say I’m a little dumpier on my clutches than he is tho.
What I mean is when they are drag racing, The don't use any of that stuff. They want as little drag as possible. So before a launch it would be turned off.
Glad you enjoyed the song...
I have no Idea If it's putting extra stress, but that is my theory based on the fact that its leaking at the area that was welded. I am curious if you could drill the pin hole and re weld that area. Maybe it had contamination or porosity in that area down at the base.
It has to be bad welds. Theres no way theres enough force on the connector of the hose to break with a proper weld.
Are you brushing the aluminum and using a lot of acetone before welding? Do you give enough time to clean the aluminum and proper ac balance? Ive welded up ac fittings before and not had them leak but it sucked. Sold my tig rig though