You wont' be able to tow much with the Vig, so if you plan on towing...go with the Yank.

I might have my Vig 3200 for sale in a few weeks if there is any interest.

Kent

 

I have a Vigilante 2800 in my truck, and for everyday driving it isn't really much different than stock. If I'm at a stop and let off the brake, I move forward just like with a stock converter (although maybe not quite as fast). During normal acceleration, my RPM's stay around 2100-2300, depending on how how fast I'm accelerating. The only time it gets to 2800 RPM's is if I punch it or brake stall it. I was in the same boat as you when I was looking to get a converter. I didn't want something that would be unstreetable for an everyday driver, but after getting the 2800, I really wish now that I'd gotten a 3200. Hope this helps.

 

does anyone have info on a tranny cooler? Wille JSmith need one if he goes with a 2600? If so, what is the best brand and where to get one?

 

Why cant the vig tow as much as the Yank? Is it because the Vig is a 9.5" converter? I have a 3000 Vig and love it!!!! I dont tow anything except for like twice a year but dont know why the two differ.

 

Wow. This thread has some good questions and answers in it. Well put! I have been afraid of going with an aftermarket converter because I tow my jeep on the weekends, and didn't want it winding up hard off the line with light throttle. Hmm... Looks like either a trailblazer converter or yank 3000 is in my future too! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

What type of transmission life should I expect with a 3000 converter?

Also since my truck is a new 03 is there any way I can get a converter that looks like the factory one but has a 3000 stall? If so what brand/model?

For my last question, how hard is it to do a converter swap? How many hours of work? I do most auto repairs myself and am sure I could do the swap, so I want to get an idea.

Its great having such a cool forum/forum members! Thanks for all the info everyone! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by silverado:
<strong> Why cant the vig tow as much as the Yank? Is it because the Vig is a 9.5" converter? I have a 3000 Vig and love it!!!! I dont tow anything except for like twice a year but dont know why the two differ. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">i am prety sure the yank has a larger lock up clutch. the yank 3000 info tells you you can tow 8000lbs and the vig doesn't so that is all i know for sure. they say you don't need a cooler with the yank 3000 but they are so cheap and easy to put in that i got one anyways, cheap insurance.

i don't think the yank3000 would shorten your tranny life, especialy with a cooler. put a power adder on there and now the trannys days are limited.

the first thing i noticed with the yank3000 is on a moderate hill you have to use the brakes, it will roll backwards if you are just idleing. the truck will start to move with less than 1500rpm if you ease into it. the stall speed is related to your power, i stall to 4200rpm with my yank3000 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> , and it leaves hard.

 

Now for answer to your warranty question. An after market part can not void your warranty if installed per the manufactures instructions. The only time this can cause a warranty problem is if it causes another part on your truck to fail but even then the dealer has to be able to prove it. There have been a couple of posts on new factory warranted, dealer sold trucks with things like super chargers, lowering kits, programming, etc. on them. Show your dealer one of these and they tend to get real quite about what voids a warranty. There is actually a law on the books that prohibits the voiding of warranty bc of after market parts. In your case a higher stall speed can't help but be a little rougher on the tranny so I would beef it up with a Jet kit or something like that. Maybe someone else can chime in. Check out this post for more info on the law: www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=003368

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by parish8:
<strong>the stall speed is related to your power, i stall to 4200rpm with my yank3000 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> , and it leaves hard. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ok, now I'm confused. If you have a 3000rpm stall converter how can you stall to 4200rpm?

<small>[ March 27, 2003, 10:26 PM: Message edited by: JSmith ]</small>

 

Weight of the vehicle and engine power play alot into stall speed. Yank genericaly rates the TT3000 to the factory weight and power of the truck. They state that the exact same converters stall ~200rpm higher in a factory f-bod even though they are lighter, they have more power. If you put that same converter in a truck making the same power/torque as the f-bod, it will stall ~3400rpm. As in Parish's case, his truck is a bit heavier and has a lot more power so that is why he can stall to 4200. I am sure this is brake stall and it is not flashing to 4200 but please correct me if I am wrong.