I don't know how the 3000 acts, but if you've seen my vid of my 3200, I get NO traction off the line...that's with 4.10s...
I suppose a 3000 wouldn't be so bad with 4.10s but I don't know.

But to answer your question, I'd keep the 3.42s if you want to keep your top end, and go with at LEAST a 3000 stall...you'll need a posi fo shizzle

I'm going to go back to 3.73s or maybe even 3.42s...I'm unsure, I'm waiting to see if I can find anyone on some forum with a similar setup as me.

 

Another vote for the YANK TT3000. It has tightened up some since I first put it in and I can launch it real nice now. I have the 3.42 rear but my tire size is an inch or so shorter which brings my gear up to about a 3.60ish ratio. I wouldn't go thru the trouble to install any less then the 2600 you mentioned. And as for gear go, ask 01Thunder what a rearend upgrade just cost him $$$. Its money! Since you already have a G80 limited slip, I'd just freshin' up your gear lube and add a bottle of GM Posi additive. I did that to mine and it spins both everytime. When the clutches in the rear go up, and you start to feel that one wheel peel, then I say go for the Eaton and a gear change.

 

Hey Chingon has your converter "tightened up" any since you put it in?? How many miles do you have on it? Just wondering because mine isn't spinning half as bad as it was when I first put it in around 200 miles ago.

 

I think that you would be more satisfied with a torque converter than a gear change.

 

It feels like it has a bit. I'm not sure if it's just breaking in though.

I've had the fuel line I used to connect my B&M trans cooler crack open 2 times already and have had to refill that bitch up...***** pissin me off actually.
I replaced the fuel line that was there with a newer one(I hope it is, looks "fresher" than the one that was on there) and hopefully it will not bust.
So tomorrow I gotta check the trans fluid and then I'll run it again and see how it acts...

 

Thanks for the responses guys!

I think I'll keep my 3.42s and go with a 2600 Yank TT. If it isn't enough, I'll get the 3.73s later.

Might sound goofy, but half the reason I wanted to swap out the gears is because I'm scared when I'm having the eaton installed, that something will be wrong with my stock ones. I read somewhere on here about somebody's gears being torn up. Should I just put new 3.42s in, just in case?

 

If you you are installing an Eaton go with a gear while you already have it apart.You might as well only take the rearend apart once.I still think 4.10s are the way to go.

 

Oh yeah, I will be having heads put on later this year. Wouldn't that require a little more gear?

Right now my truck is sluggish until ~2000 rpms. When it gets to ~2400-2500 rpms, it starts pulling hard until the redline. Thats why I want the 2600 stall, I figure it would pull hard out of the hole with out spinning TOO much. The 3000 is too much for me, I want to feel some of my lower rpms working.

What I mean was; I'll get the stall first and later get the eaton and gears.

 

hey chingon i had that problem.i used brass barbed fittings and 3/8 push lock hose for 300*fluid. when i was using the fuel line they told me it would get soft due to the tranny fluid and heat. i got mine from a hydraulic hose place. also i ordered some fittings from summit. derale fittings.

 

I'd say go for the stall, and see how the truck reacts and performs with that. Then when it comes time for the Eaton, I would definately do at least a 3.73 rear depending on the tire you are going to run and how the truck is "performing" at that point. But in the interm, if you change your gear oil in the rear and add that GM Posi additive I think you will be happy with the results for a while.