GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |

Weird engine knocking, time for new build?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 06:19 PM
  #21  
Suburbazine's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Default

500 miles on Seafoam will probably kill the engine. Seafoam is designed to break down oil crud and in the process, oil. 500 miles later you will be needing new bearings lol. Maybe go 25-35 miles then change it pronto.
Reply
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #22  
superchomper2003's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Default

lol yeah I did a search of my problem on google and found where others where having a similar problem and someone suggested to run seafoam for about 500 miles then change the oil and they said it fixed there problem. Lol I was that WHAT 500 Miles! I had figured that was way to much just wanted to ask to make sure I wasn't the one who was wrong. I have always been leery of putting any kind of a cleaner in my oil. Was always worried it would brake everything lose and clog something up.
Reply
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #23  
Suburbazine's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Default

Originally Posted by superchomper2003
lol yeah I did a search of my problem on google and found where others where having a similar problem and someone suggested to run seafoam for about 500 miles then change the oil and they said it fixed there problem. Lol I was that WHAT 500 Miles! I had figured that was way to much just wanted to ask to make sure I wasn't the one who was wrong. I have always been leery of putting any kind of a cleaner in my oil. Was always worried it would brake everything lose and clog something up.
Seafoam won't clog anything up, it dissolves clogs. Just don't run it over 50 miles or you will dissolve your bottom end.

It will also clean the crud out of your valve covers and promptly deposit it in the oil filter, hence the need for immediate change.
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #24  
superchomper2003's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Default

Ok tried the seafoam thing and no help. After I changed the oil ran it for a bit then changed it again to make sure everything was clean. I also got my autometer oil pressure gauge installed and hooked up. At idle it runs about 25psi and when reving a bit it goes up to aboue 50psi. Doesn't that seem a bit low at idle? Every other ls engine I have had ran more than that at idle. What do you guys think?
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #25  
MikeGyver's Avatar
TECH Veteran
20 Year Member
Loved
Liked
Community Favorite
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 245
From: Suburban Chicago
Default

It sounds like mine, the grindings from the cam lobe ate up a couple of bearings and my oil pressure dropped. The big difference in our stories is the large amount of different types of metal that came out when I drained the oil.
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #26  
Suburbazine's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Default

Originally Posted by superchomper2003
Ok tried the seafoam thing and no help. After I changed the oil ran it for a bit then changed it again to make sure everything was clean. I also got my autometer oil pressure gauge installed and hooked up. At idle it runs about 25psi and when reving a bit it goes up to aboue 50psi. Doesn't that seem a bit low at idle? Every other ls engine I have had ran more than that at idle. What do you guys think?
You have an oil pressure problem. Either bad pickup o-ring is aerating the oil, or you have a chewed up lifter or cam bearing. Cyclic clattering is a symptom of oil pressure going so low the lifters collapse. You should see 38-40psi at idle and be able to push 75 at full throttle.
Reply
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #27  
superchomper2003's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Default

I guess I will just replace the engine then. Been driving it and it hasn't got any worse so Im just gonna pray it holds up until I get another engine and get it prepped up. I can get around 03 model 5.3 with over 100k miles for like 400 bux, or like a 06 with about 50k for 800. Even the older 6.0 engines with over 100k are over a grand around here. So what you guys think the 06 with about 50k the best deal?
Reply
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #28  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville , CA
Default

Check this website I buy alot of stuff from here Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market . The wrecking yards in my area are just to damn expensive it is cheaper for me to buy things from another area and have it shipped. Check it out....
Reply
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #29  
superchomper2003's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks Man!
Reply
Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #30  
superchomper2003's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Default

Just a bit of an update, I have been driving this truck to work everyday without any issues other than the knocking sound and it doesn't seem to have gotten any worse. I have even driven it on the interstate some. I pray it keeps holding up until I am able to replace the engine sometime next year. Like beginning of Feb. We will see.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:14 PM.