V6 to V8 swap for '86 C10
01-04-2006, 02:01 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Nickvrebel
Ron,
If you are playing with this tonight give me a call, I wanna play with it too
If you are playing with this tonight give me a call, I wanna play with it too
Here's my list of things to do for now:
#1 - Buy braided lines & connectors/clamps for fuel & power steering
#2 - Fab a fuel line to replaced the one I kinked
#3 - Buy a UDP
#4 - Measure new length for driveshaft, & get new one custom made
#5 - Find solution for header issue
#6 - Decide on wiring possibilities
#7 - Buy gauge cluster kit (dependent on sale of old eng & trans)
Budget is pinched severely, and not in a position to make big purchases (reason why gauges are last). I'll try to tackle the smaller issues first, and work from there. You're welcome to come by and gawk at the truck tho.
01-08-2006, 07:35 AM
#55
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Did you do any notching to the frame for exhaust? The Pacesetter LT 2264s won't fit w/o notching for me, and I'm not a fan of notching. May just find a set of CC'd F-body headers (if they're direct fit for the 5.3).
Damn, I wanted those long tubes!
Damn, I wanted those long tubes!
01-08-2006, 09:38 AM
#56
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Well: It's no turning back now. Two pair of hands, and two hours of wrenching, and the engine bay is empty.. I wish it was a little warmer in the shop, since a coat of POR-15 on the frame and inner fender wells would be nice, and a quick fog on the firewall would spruce things up a bit. I guess that will have to wait though. At least I can degrease the crossmembers, and fit the motor. Today I plan on fitting the motor plates up to my junk LS1 block, and dropping it in to the engine bay with my trans attached (oh.. gotta drain that too).
During the week, I measured the lengths on my LT1 block and 1994 4L60E, and compared it to the LR4 and the 98 4L60E. FYI, though the guts of the 4L60E are basically the same, the cases changed quite a bit through the 90's with the most obvious being the longer, divorced bellhousings, relocation of the trans mount from the main case to the tailshaft housing, and a 6-bolt tailshaft housing vs. the older 4-bolt housing. The 98 case is ~15 mm longer, and the trans mount is about 50mm further rearward. If can compensate for the longer trans in the engine bracket, I can keep my driveshaft. My driveshaft is one of those aluminum ones wrapped in what looks like fiberglass. I don't think they can modify it, so it will have to be a $250 re-tube and balance, vs. a $150 shorten and rebalance.
I think I confused myself with some of the dimensions when I put it into a spreadsheet, and might lay it out in AutoCaD. But then again, I can drop the motor and trans in, and work from there... More later.
During the week, I measured the lengths on my LT1 block and 1994 4L60E, and compared it to the LR4 and the 98 4L60E. FYI, though the guts of the 4L60E are basically the same, the cases changed quite a bit through the 90's with the most obvious being the longer, divorced bellhousings, relocation of the trans mount from the main case to the tailshaft housing, and a 6-bolt tailshaft housing vs. the older 4-bolt housing. The 98 case is ~15 mm longer, and the trans mount is about 50mm further rearward. If can compensate for the longer trans in the engine bracket, I can keep my driveshaft. My driveshaft is one of those aluminum ones wrapped in what looks like fiberglass. I don't think they can modify it, so it will have to be a $250 re-tube and balance, vs. a $150 shorten and rebalance.
I think I confused myself with some of the dimensions when I put it into a spreadsheet, and might lay it out in AutoCaD. But then again, I can drop the motor and trans in, and work from there... More later.
01-08-2006, 12:16 PM
#57
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Ah... the joy of degreasing. I sprayed a couple of cans of that on the crossmember, let it sit for 15 minutes, then sprayed some more. Took a pressure washer to it, and saw bare (unpainted) metal afterwards. Then, I took my sander to it, and got all the major areas, and lightly hand-sanded the hard to reach places. Got some Wally World primer, and went to town.
Go the extra mile since the motor's out of the way. I had 20 years of dirt, oil, & gunk to clean, but it's much better now. Keep us posted!
Go the extra mile since the motor's out of the way. I had 20 years of dirt, oil, & gunk to clean, but it's much better now. Keep us posted!
01-08-2006, 12:37 PM
#58
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No notching for exhaust. I just used the 2002 f-body manafolds and cats then ran the exhaust from there. Ah just remembered I modifyed the passenger side manafold to remove the EGR boss that was hitting the frame. Had it welded up and all was good. Can you modify your headers so they will fit?
01-08-2006, 05:00 PM
#59
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Nah... the headers I have (Pacesetter 72C2264) are for the 5.3, and are long tubes. One of the primaries bump the framerail on each side. Plus that EGR boss gets in the way. A buddy of mine has been looking for a good set of LTs, and told me that he wants them if I decide not use them.
F-body headers seem to be the way I'll go. Summit has CC'd ones for $300. Is this the best deal?
F-body headers seem to be the way I'll go. Summit has CC'd ones for $300. Is this the best deal?
01-08-2006, 05:31 PM
#60
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IMO I would get the cheapest headers you can find, mod them so they will fit, then send them out to be coated. I think anything less than long tubes is a waste.