badz24s

iTrader: (1)

I searched.

I try to study how to's/instructions to memorize them before performing any mods.
I have a Powerbond UDP. I think I can lock the stock pulley no problem to take it off. I also have the dirttrack81 install tool.
My questions are:
1. How can I lock the motor when I go to tighten the UDP?
2. Do I really have to tighten to 240 ft/lbs or can I just seat it completely with the install tool & then do the 37 ft/lbs then 120* turn?
3. Should I use threadlocker on the replacement bolt or not?

BTW, I bought the ARP crank bolt. I'll be danged if the bolt Scoggin Dickey sent doesn't look to be the same thing. Now I've got an extra bolt.
I could have used that money to buy the KentMoore flexplate locking tool.

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

ARP is a 12pnt 1 1/16" the SD one will be a 15/16" id think.

also to "tighten" the pulley on, i started it on with a 1/2" ratchet then when it stopped i removed the bolt, added liquid wrench, sucked it on as much as possible. then i pulled it and did the same thing then i used my impact to pull it in. once it started to slow down i pulled the bolt again and put more liquid wrench and did it until it couldnt go anymore. i then slid under the truck and where the black cover is by the oil filter i removed it and slide a prybar in to lock the converter up. i then got a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe and put a good bind on it. regrouped and did it again. been running like that 25k miles and MANY races.

06Sierra2

i just made sure it was lined up straight and installed it fully with the install tool. then i used a long pry bar through the pulley under the oil pan and torqued it real tight with a big impact. been a hard 5k mi and good so far

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

you can do that with a stock pulley not a SLP UD pulley. you have to jam the flexplate/converter up

badz24s

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought before I bought them. I thought SD would just send a stock replacement. This one is exactly like the ARP. Both are 12pt 1 1/16" (27mm). The only difference is the SD bolt isn't as (for lack of better terms) cleanly machined in the center of the head, the threaded end isn't drilled(if you've seen one, you know what I'm talking about), & it doesn't say ARP. Wish I had a way to upload pics tonight, I'd show y'all.

yep, it doesn't have spokes like the stock one. So I basically need to jam a big pry bar thru one of the flexplate holes?

I hate having to get under this thing, that's one of the things that sucks about a 4/6. I started driving it up on some big landscaping bricks anytime I need to get under it. my 2 ton jack doesn't like my truck & I'm too cheap to buy a 3ton low profile jack or ramps. I'd rather spend it on mods

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

i have a 2 ton low profile swivel head in my WT and i have a 3ton aluminum jack for my CC and i have a 3ton jack that stays in the shed lol...oh and i have ramps too

gotta spend money to make it easier to work on the truck vs fighting that **** everytime.
more mods can always come later

06Sierra2

yeah you are right. i wasnt thinking. thats how i did the stock one. with the slp one i just hammered it with a beastly impact after using the install tool and it barely spun. did that a couple times and it was good to go. checked it a few thousand miles later and it was still tight

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

i just put mine on with my impact (didnt have the install tool) and jammed the flexplate and put it in a bind. im fat so i have alot of weight to put it on

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

wrap the serpentine belt around the crank pulley and idler pulley, that will lock up the crankshaft. Then torque down the UDP. It's actually not that hard to get it 140 degrees at all.

badz24s

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys

So loctite or not?