Yea...guessing. I wont touch someones car if they have anything more than just a cam swap without them having a wideband. Might loose clients that way, but I dont tune for a living so I have that luxury.

 

Not really trying to stir the pot here, but you guys are assuming that he tuned his own truck, without any help from somebody else....

 

900 rpm idle?

'Nuff said.

 

I have come to the conclusion that people just DONT want to buy a wideband.

 

sorry for the late response, messed with the truck a lil last night then the girlfriend came over. ok, the truck is an 03 and just turned 160k miles. it has always run strong, never had any issues whatsoever with it, especially any engine issues. only things i have done is pacesetter longtubes with matching pacesetter y-pipe that feeds into a flowmaster original 40 series muffler to dual exhaust. i have a k&n cai, the cam, springs, and rods that i listed on the opening post of this thread, and the throttle body coolant line bypass mod. i drove the truck last night. if i floor it from a stop or going very slow while in first gear, once it shifts into 2nd gear there is a single "pop" noise that comes from the engine compartment and it throws a p1514 dtc and also a mass air flow dtc (forget the exact code) and then the information center reads "reduced engine power" and the truck runs in a limp home mode until i clear the code, then it runs normal again. it has NEVER done this before, even with my mods BEFORE the tune. im planning on doing a compression check today to eliminate that. as far as justune goes, yes i was under the assumption that if he can tune a 1200rwhp setup that mine would be a walk in the park. im hoping that the problem is an underlying issue or something i did wrong. now i didnt install new valve seals, only new springs and rods which were matched to the cam by both comp cams and summit racing tech line, could this be a possible issue? and as far as the tuning went, idk. i wasnt there for the tune, i dropped my truck off. when i got back it was on the dyno and he said something was going on with the cam cuz it wasnt making any power. it was actually making less power than stock is suppose to (285 at the flywheel right?) well i know with mileage and other factors that an engine is will lose power. but if this cam should be adding 50hp, and 8-15 for the cai, and 10-20ish for the headers, that would mean the engine has lost around 100 hp and at stock was in the high 100's for hp? seems kinda sketchy. thoughts?

 

oh i forgot, yes it idles around 900 in park and neutral, and around 1k to 1100 in drive

 

ok, newbie question. what is this WIDEBAND that you are referring to? ill try doing a google search while i wait for replies

 

I highly doubt you would gain 50 hp from the cam only, that's a small cam. I would think at least 25 hp though. Be careful with the racer math of adding all the numbers up. Regardless, you should be sitting at more than what you got and you sure the heck should not be throwing codes. If the MAF code is P0101, that's a common code for a cam swap until you get PROPERLY tuned. I don't know what's wrong, could be a number of things or even a combination of things. But, that tune is suspect, especially since this guy has a history of screwing up tunes.

LS1GTO.com Forums - View Single Post - Maggie 112 - tune - KC area

A wideband is a device that measures air/fuel ratio data. I have a wideband mounted in my car because I run nitrous. Tuners connect a wideband sensor to your car to propery tune the car. Can't really tune right without it.

 

someone earlier in this thread said that cam was proven to make 50hp thats why i was repeating it. yes i hate racer math lol. ya by no means is this a thread about me hating on the tuner, if i find out that he did screw up ill def make another thread about it lol. just want to figured out what is screwed up so i didnt **** my money down the drain, ya kno? ill floor it again and get that maf code to see if its the 0101 like u said. also, something for thought. when i tightened down the rockers, i snugged them all up then torqued them down to spec. rotated the crank 180 then checked to make sure they were still torqued to spec. was this the proper way to install the pushrods/rockers back into place?

 

Wait... did you pay him to tune the truck or not? I don't understand. What did you drop the truck off for?

Need more info on the dyno. What brand? Were the results reported as STD or SAE (corrected or uncorrected)?

Maybe 50 hp total with cam, headers, supporting mods, and good tune.