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TRuTorq cam in a heavy beast

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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #11  
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Anyways, that cam you suggested will kill your low end. Something in the 210s/220s is much more suitable.
210/220 or so is a good recommendation. Add a roots blower and you'll be laughing. A 2600 stall is MAX that I'd go with. I have a 2600 now and I'm leery about towing with it.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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thanks for the advice all...

I'm gonna go find a weigh scale, now I have no idea how heavy this thing is...
I had thought it would be a little over 6k lbs until reading (don't remember where) about the 8800.

I'll check out the old man cams too, but honestly, I'm finding it a little difficult to know what to think when half of them don't have readily accessible dynos that i can see, and some of the ones I can see start at 3k rpm. I have tried emailing some asking for a recommendation based on my needs, but haven't gotten any responses yet.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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I wouldn't go over 220/220 or bigger than 2600 converter if you want to tow. Look at VHP ultra torque cam. It would work well with a blower also
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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I think I've chosen my cam, the vhp butt-kicker. VHP says its the same as the ultra torque but a little rougher idle. Most recommended based on my wants/needs.

Specs are:
DUR @ .004" 272*/280*
DUR @ .050" 210*/218*
LIFT .551 / .551
LSA 114*

I'll also get the spring kit, but should I get rods or rockers as well?
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Another very similarly sized cam is Comps 212/218. There's a high lift and low lift version with 1 degree of LSA difference between them. I personally ran the high lift in my 5.3 and noticed great power improvement throughout the band and it is very drive-able.

Don't bother with rockers. You will probably need 7.4" hardened pushrods for that cam, but its always best to measure.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Yuke60
thanks for the advice all...

I'm gonna go find a weigh scale, now I have no idea how heavy this thing is...
I had thought it would be a little over 6k lbs until reading (don't remember where) about the 8800.

I'll check out the old man cams too, but honestly, I'm finding it a little difficult to know what to think when half of them don't have readily accessible dynos that i can see, and some of the ones I can see start at 3k rpm. I have tried emailing some asking for a recommendation based on my needs, but haven't gotten any responses yet.
There's NO WAY your truck is anywhere near 8800 lbs. IIRC that's the non-HD 2500 trailer tow rating with 3.73 gears per my owners manual. My 2000 2500 Silverado is under 6000lbs empty per the scale at the landscape supply place here, your Yukon can't be 3000 lbs more than that...
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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I have an '00 Suburban 2500 6.0 4x4 4l80e 3.73 gears, it weighs 6640 per the cat scales with about 1/2 tank of gas and some tools and crap in the back.

I'm also researching cams, rockers, headers, superchargers. So far it has a magnaflow muffler with stock piping, airaid intake, and Blackbear Autocal tune.

Mine is used almost solely for towing-mostly around 7k pounds right now, but also looking at toy haulers.


Subscribing for the cam info!
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #18  
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Well, I'm pretty sure that I will go with the "butt kicker" cam I mentioned above. They also have a valve kit with duals, retainers, locators and seals. I just need to decide on the rods.

Vinci said this would still be a good cam if i decide to go FI later, if only i can find the $$

Dragr1 - Whoa, our weights are pretty close. I just weighed it at 3030 kg (6680 lbs) with about the same gas and some toold in the back.

Does anyone know if I need to worry about the crankshaft bolt? I thought I had seen someone mention that it should be replaced. and what about gaskets?
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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Stock torque converter, cam 212/214, lt headers, tvs 1900 supercharger, and your good to go haul a house with it. Gear swap to 4.30s if you need more leverage.
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Yuke60
Does anyone know if I need to worry about the crankshaft bolt? I thought I had seen someone mention that it should be replaced. and what about gaskets?
Don't take a chance, get a new bolt and a crankshaft install too. This will save yourself some headaches.

I've never done a cam swap where I regretted reusing gaskets. Never had any leaks. I do put RTV in the corners. If you are really scary about it, just change out the water pump gaskets as those can go out from time to time.
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