GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |

Trans. Coolant lines which one is in/out?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:19 PM
  #11  
closet red neck's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
If you don't already have a cooler you want it on the downside of the radiator cooler. If not it will cool the fluid down then you would pump it into the radiator which would probably heat it back up since it will probably be hotter than an aftermarket cooler.

You could unhook the lines and start her up to determine which is in and out. Sorry had to.

Here is a quote from a web page I found on the subject. Doing an install on an F Body.

"Here is the layout of the lines as they exist in your car. Notice how the line coming from the tranny to the factory cooler has its rubber hose crimped to the metal tube and the return line going back to the tranny has a clamp? This makes this job VERY easy... almost as if this car was designed to have an aftermarket tranny cooler installed right from the get go... hmmm This brings up an interesting point. I have heard of some bypassing completely the factory transmission oil cooler in the radiator and using only their aftermarket tranny cooler. You do NOT want to do this in my opinion. The factory cooler will provide you an additional 30% more cooling so you might as well use it! So, the flow path will be like this: Tranny --> stock rad cooler --> aftermarket tranny cooler --> tranny."
"If you don't already have a cooler you want it on the downside of the radiator cooler. If not it will cool the fluid down then you would pump it into the radiator which would probably heat it back up since it will probably be hotter than an aftermarket cooler." I bypassed the factory cooler all together. This is what I thought he was referring to on how I did my truck. My bad!!! I took the factory one completely out of the truck and bypassed the rad also, file 13'd the stocker. I then bought a B&M cooler and installed AN fittings on push lock hose, screwed the hose to the cooler, then ran the push lock hose down to the trans, installed AN fittings onto the ends of the push lock hose and screwed the push lock ends onto the unions that I installed into the trans. I wanted to get this IHRA certified along with the D/S and oil cooling system. By these specs, you can't use any hose clamps, heat resistant to a certain degree and hold a certain amount of line pressure. I did all of this when I had my trans built.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:12 AM
  #12  
BigBlockChev572's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by closet red neck
Sorry for the double post, you know why your trans plug is so tight? My buddy at the dealership told me that they put lock tight on... I said WTF!!!!! Whats the point of putting a plug on their if you can't use it!!! I had to drain some fluid too(same situ...) and my truck was still under warranty so I took it to him and they R&R'd the pan and I told him to tell the tech to make sure I can use my plug.
No problem man. Yeah I know. That drain plug would not come out! That's pretty stupid using loc tite, it must be the red type on how tight that sucker is.
Philip S
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:13 AM
  #13  
BigBlockChev572's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by closet red neck
"If you don't already have a cooler you want it on the downside of the radiator cooler. If not it will cool the fluid down then you would pump it into the radiator which would probably heat it back up since it will probably be hotter than an aftermarket cooler." I bypassed the factory cooler all together. This is what I thought he was referring to on how I did my truck. My bad!!! I took the factory one completely out of the truck and bypassed the rad also, file 13'd the stocker. I then bought a B&M cooler and installed AN fittings on push lock hose, screwed the hose to the cooler, then ran the push lock hose down to the trans, installed AN fittings onto the ends of the push lock hose and screwed the push lock ends onto the unions that I installed into the trans. I wanted to get this IHRA certified along with the D/S and oil cooling system. By these specs, you can't use any hose clamps, heat resistant to a certain degree and hold a certain amount of line pressure. I did all of this when I had my trans built.
Well, it seems that our set-ups differ just a tad . Thanks for responding and looking at the thread man! Thanks!
Philip S.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:25 AM
  #14  
budhayes3's Avatar
PT's Slowest Truck
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,863
Likes: 2
From: Hackensack, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by BigBlockChev572
No problem man. Yeah I know. That drain plug would not come out! That's pretty stupid using loc tite, it must be the red type on how tight that sucker is.
Philip S
My drain plug wouldn't come out either, plus, it's a stupid torx! I remember being excited that GM finally started putting drain plugs in the trans pan, until I tried to get it out. I did everything I could to avoid stripping it (put a floor jack and a block of wood under the 1/2" drive rachet to hold the torx socket deep and flush in the fastener)...but the f**cker still stripped! Had to drop the pan the old school way I think they at least swithced to a regular style fastener 00 and up. Next time I take the pan down I plan to replace it with a nice B&M deep aluminum one
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #15  
TG02Z71's Avatar
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,134
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Default

Originally Posted by budhayes3
My drain plug wouldn't come out either, plus, it's a stupid torx! I remember being excited that GM finally started putting drain plugs in the trans pan, until I tried to get it out. I did everything I could to avoid stripping it (put a floor jack and a block of wood under the 1/2" drive rachet to hold the torx socket deep and flush in the fastener)...but the f**cker still stripped! Had to drop the pan the old school way I think they at least swithced to a regular style fastener 00 and up. Next time I take the pan down I plan to replace it with a nice B&M deep aluminum one
They did change the drain bolt to a standard hex head type but the stupid peice if crap is tapered!?!?!?! WTF?!?!? It still slips off and out of your socket when you try to lossen it, thus stripping and rounding the hex bolt.
I just don't understand the thinking behind adding a drain plug then putting the worst fatener avaliable on it.
Is there anything out there as far as a replacement that really works?
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:34 AM
  #16  
litreddevil's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,151
Likes: 1
From: From Houma La. Living n Ellisville Miss.
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
If you don't already have a cooler you want it on the downside of the radiator cooler. If not it will cool the fluid down then you would pump it into the radiator which would probably heat it back up since it will probably be hotter than an aftermarket cooler.

You could unhook the lines and start her up to determine which is in and out. Sorry had to.

Here is a quote from a web page I found on the subject. Doing an install on an F Body.

"Here is the layout of the lines as they exist in your car. Notice how the line coming from the tranny to the factory cooler has its rubber hose crimped to the metal tube and the return line going back to the tranny has a clamp? This makes this job VERY easy... almost as if this car was designed to have an aftermarket tranny cooler installed right from the get go... hmmm This brings up an interesting point. I have heard of some bypassing completely the factory transmission oil cooler in the radiator and using only their aftermarket tranny cooler. You do NOT want to do this in my opinion. The factory cooler will provide you an additional 30% more cooling so you might as well use it! So, the flow path will be like this: Tranny --> stock rad cooler --> aftermarket tranny cooler --> tranny."

IF YOU ARE PUTTING A TRANS COOLER THEN BY PASS THE RADIATOR ALL TOGETHER,THE RADIATOR IS HEATING UP THE TRANS FLUIDE AND THE COOLER IS COOLING IT SO Y NOT JUST BY PASS THE RADIATOR ALL TOGETHER. THEN U ALSO DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE TRANS COOLER JUG BUSTING IN TO THE RADIATOR,AND FRING THE TRANS.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:39 AM
  #17  
budhayes3's Avatar
PT's Slowest Truck
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,863
Likes: 2
From: Hackensack, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by litreddevil
IF YOU ARE PUTTING A TRANS COOLER THEN BY PASS THE RADIATOR ALL TOGETHER,THE RADIATOR IS HEATING UP THE TRANS FLUIDE AND THE COOLER IS COOLING IT SO Y NOT JUST BY PASS THE RADIATOR ALL TOGETHER. THEN U ALSO DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE TRANS COOLER JUG BUSTING IN TO THE RADIATOR,AND FRING THE TRANS.
I would think that using the cooler in the rad along with an auxilary cooler would allow for more consistent temps, as opposed to running a separate cooler on the trans only.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:52 AM
  #18  
litreddevil's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,151
Likes: 1
From: From Houma La. Living n Ellisville Miss.
Default

Originally Posted by budhayes3
I would think that using the cooler in the rad along with an auxilary cooler would allow for more consistent temps, as opposed to running a separate cooler on the trans only.


NOT REALLY WORRY ABOUT CONSISTENT TEMP.I JUST WANT IT COOL THAT HELP THE LIFE OF A TRANS ALOT AND THIS WEEK ALONE SAW 3 COME TO THE SHOP WITH EVERYTHING BURNED. I BY PASS THE RAD.COOLER AND HAVE A B&M COOLER WITH A 10" FAN ON IT MY TRANS TEMP ARE AROUND 150*AND WHEN TOWING IT GET TO ABOUT 175*
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #19  
budhayes3's Avatar
PT's Slowest Truck
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,863
Likes: 2
From: Hackensack, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by litreddevil
TRANS TEMP ARE AROUND 150*AND WHEN TOWING IT GET TO ABOUT 175*
Those sound like some nice temps to me...btw, pm'd ya...
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
gandolphxx's Avatar
Staging Lane
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Default

Originally Posted by litreddevil
NOT REALLY WORRY ABOUT CONSISTENT TEMP.I JUST WANT IT COOL THAT HELP THE LIFE OF A TRANS ALOT AND THIS WEEK ALONE SAW 3 COME TO THE SHOP WITH EVERYTHING BURNED. I BY PASS THE RAD.COOLER AND HAVE A B&M COOLER WITH A 10" FAN ON IT MY TRANS TEMP ARE AROUND 150*AND WHEN TOWING IT GET TO ABOUT 175*
My transmission runs at about 160 on a consistent basis with a 22000GVW cooler in front of the radiator - no extra fan. The radiator is hotter than that in normal conditions by 20 - 30 degrees. It is my understanding that part of the reasoning is to bring the tranny temp up to operational [160 degrees] quicker on startup, especially in cold climates, which it does.

I have noted that the aux cooler is shedding heat, about 20 degrees which is then fed into the main radiator as hotter intake air, hence increasing the main coolant temp.

This stikes me as a poor way to do things.
Comments?
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:59 AM.