I was wanting to know what a torque converter does and how it works, i am wanting to know if i should get one for my truck.

 

Other: I resently baught this - resently is spell recently. And a torque converter might be a good idea. Try a search on howstuffworks.com. They have good presentations for info that you seek.

 

I'll save you the trouble:
Click Here

 

I believe that your truck uses a 700R4 transmission you need to verify that before buying anyone's converter.There are lots of choices of converters available for a 700R4 and they are considerably cheaper than the ones used in the LS1 powered trucks.You can probably get a good deal through like Summit or Jegs.

 

I could keep the stock transmission or i could put a turbo 400 transmission

 

A 700 I'm about 99% sure NEVER came behind a 454 big block. It's and '85 so it should have the TH400. Here's my writeup on converters:

<<<<Converters are the "black holes" and "voodoo" of cars and trucks. They are strange, complicated, and misunderstood.

First, stall is based on input torque. I.e. an anemic, low compression 350 may be able to stall a converter to about 2000 rpm. A hot, higher compression with good heads 350 may be able to get that stall up to 2600 rpm due to making more torque. That is with the same converter. It really depends on your motor.

Stall also is in different forms. There is flash stall, brake stall, and actual stall.

Flash stall is, with no traction problems, the peak RPM or the quick jump of the engine RPM's on with the converter. This isn't the best way to measure stall. Insane amounts of torque can make a 3000rpm stall to 4200rpm+
Brake stall is, holding down your brake and gassing the ride with the other foot. That doesn't work too well either b/c you will generally begin to light up the rear tires.
Actual stall is if you had a trans brake on your trans (holds R+D together) so you don't move and your RPM's rise to your stall speed. If you have a 3000rpm stall, that is what your engine should rev to with the line lock on. You would launch off of that.

Softness depends on the stall and size you go with. High stall, small converters are "loose" converters if you will. Larger diameter usually help keep the looseness away and keep the factory towing up. These act more stock with higher stall. The softness is more likely to be with the part-throttle shift than the WOT ones.

Looseness is hard to explain. Like you'd have to give the vehicle a bit more gas to get moving and depending on diameter. Generally your part throttle putting around rpms are about 2000-2200rpm.

Finally, with a high stall converter, install a large transmission cooler. Even if the instructions say it is okay to use the factory cooler/heat exchanger get one. They are cheap insurance. $50 cooler or $2000 transmission?>>>>

 

If you are planning serious mods with a big block then you need a stronger transmission.If you are keeping a stock throttlebody injected 454 with maybe a tuner,air intake and exhaust system I would go with the stock transmission and a mild converter,because that motor will make about the same power as a boltons 5.3.

 

It's got a Holley carb...

Anyway, yeah stock BBC heads aren't gonna be too good in the smog era. But good aftermarkets are pretty expensive, I'd look for some pre smog heads to work over.

A stock TH400 should hold up to whatever that low-compression 454 can make...it's a 3/4 ton transmission. Just get a big cooler on it and a quality shift kit from TransGo or Superior and you'll be set.

 

Other: When you point out someone's mistakes, make sure you don't make one either
Your sentence, "..resently is spell recently." should be "...resently is spelled recently."
Also, beginning a sentence with the word "and" is improper English grammar.

 

So we have english majors in here or something. You guys need to stop bashing and start building those trucks, Come On Man!!!!!