+1...also the second biggest thing is GOOD TUNING....nothing will kill your combo faster than bad tuning

 

Yeah except all my numbers are at the wheels not flywheel lol. Oh and i still think 90%of what you post is rubbish.

You see this first sentnce herelenty of guys are bolt on/cam only and putting down 330-350 to the wheels all the time.

I said to the wheels and my numbers did not go from the wheels to flywheel like magic all of a sudden.

 

I think you can get pretty close, here's a long tube, cam, tune setup that is proven for 100 over stock.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Test Vehicle: 2006 Silverado 5.3L regcab 2wd

Baseline HP: 224hp

Final HP: 322HP , 300TQ

Our test vehicle is a 2006 Silverado donated by Jacob of San Antonio, TX.

We all know how it starts, you bolt on a few simple modifications and before you know it, you have the performance bug, this Silvervado is no exception.

The first series of mods consisted of bolting on a set of Pacesetter headers, along with a 40 series Flowmaster.

The installation was soon complete with a StageII cam package from Nelson Performance. The custom grind features a healthy 220 duration and .588 lift.
So you want a 100 extra horsepower from your Silverado, here is a list of proven components.

Pacesetter headers and ypipe: $400

Custom cam kit: $690

Performance tune: $375

Flowmaster muffler: $50

Installation will vary.

Here are the results of our performance upgrades.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1000x1118 and weights 101KB.



Installation and dyno tuning provided by Nelson Performance, San Antonio, TX.

Here's the link:
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/front...in-budget.html

 

Don't know about RWHP dynos, and test conditions vary way too much. Might make 400 on one dyno, and only 340 on another. Mid to lower 12's might be withen reach if it all works together. Might take a little more cam with 11:1, and ported heads.

 

I think it can be done with the right combo, I'm sure I'll have to swap my shorties for LT's(anyone wanna buy some nice shorties?) ORY, I'll start with what I've got get it dynoed again the day I plan on doing the swap to get a good pre/post comparison. My choice in heads are these http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=84&catid=40 or the WCCH equivalent. Cam will be TR220/220-112 , I've also decided to go with a FAST 90/90 setup. It might even take e-fans, e-water pump, larger MAF/intake tube and some very spot on tuning. I've got a pretty good base to start with 285/330 isn't bad with basically exhaust and tuning.
I will be shooting some film and pics during the swap and especially during the dyno, even if it only puts down 320.Personally I think I can put down another 100 HP, I think that last 10-15 will be a squeeze. I'm hoping to get as much airflow in/out as possible and hopefully that 220 cam will help scavenge it in, also hope to be making power up to 6500 to give me an extra 700 rpm. here's my baseline pull a couple months ago.

 

I agree completely, I intend to use the data from the dyno as a tuning tool for the track, and find the best setup I can. If you use the same dyno with similar conditions gains are truly gains

 

I agree!

 

its definitly possible we made 391 on the two tone (white, tan)04 chevy on a dyno jet and 360 on the 08 gmc on a mustang dyno.

 

I like your list but I would definitely go with a 224/224 .580/.580 112 lsa cam instead of the 220... And install some aftermarket rod bolts and rev it to like 6800-7000... That would help you alot... I think

 

good info guys, keep em coming. I'm going to start with the 220 but am willing to try different cams/combos to reach optimum power and plan on doing quite a bit of testing to back it up.