More boost and keep tuning....nitrous is just another variable but it comes with a whole new set of tuning perameters which complicate things.

 

parish go with the smc alky kit i have it and i love the kit minus i really haven't tested it yet since my truck isn't running but i can show you pics of the install if you would like but it will fit perfect where your washer fluid resevoir is i just took mine out if your interested i can show you pics

marc

 

you guys are killing me, three oponions of people who's oponion i value all saying water/alkey injection with more boost. i was and still may be leaning toward the nitrous and was hoping for a little more agreement towards nitrous. it would be great to do both and a beefed up bottom end but i have spent too much money the last month and have to limit my spending a little.

i stuck the same question in the FI section, if they push toward the water/alkey route i will just have to go that route.

i have been talking alot of **** on some local boards and would really like to be in the lower 12's come march(opening day at the track)

 

Sorry to jump fence on ya but, if you are really going to go big and want to keep the motor together, stay with one power adder. You said it yourself...dual power adders(boost and nitrous) tend to make quick work of even built motors. Tuning for both linear and progressive cylinder pressures changes is a bit harder unless you have a stand alone PCM which can alter the programming WHEN the nitrous is introduced.

 

[/QUOTE]So now the story unfolds some. When you first came around, you were complaining about how bad your old L was and about all the trouble you had with it. Now you say you had nitrous on top. Sounds like you ragged it pretty hard and caused some of the issues. You cant blame the truck for having problems when you beat it down. Mine knocks sometimes, but I understand that I have caused the issues with nitrous. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Hey Tex- Yeah I beat on the Lightning. I beat on everything I have and if it can't take it I get rid of it. The nitrous had nothing to do with my L problems. I had it 7 months and it was in the shop for warranty work several times. Everything from the drivers seat being worn out at a few thousand miles to the clunking front suspension. I have had this Chebby for over 15 months now and it has 24,000 on it and has been in for warranty exactly 0 times. It has had a much harder life than the L-I had it mainly during the winter months when the tracks around here were closed. The Chev has been raced regularly for an entire season and only now is the tranny starting to give up. Sorry for getting this post off topic but I get emotional about the L thing. Lightnings are badass trucks with a poor build quality. And by the way my Silverado should have the juice by the end of this upcoming season so we will see how it holds.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by parish8:
<strong>tell me what i am missing for a big shot(75+)

pistons $700
arp rod bolts $150
arp head bolts and gaskets $200?
machine work $400?

total $1450, then run a 100shot or so.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">To clarify this option some, here is a little info. You could also check with sleeper silverado about the parts he's bought to build his engine:

I checked w/ Diamond pistons on something similar. They have an off-the-shelf forged piston for $570. They say its fine for a 150 shot. If you want a 75 shot and boost, it will run you more for a stronger piston ($700). Then add $180 for a ring set. A local shop quoted me $150 for a bore / hone to 4.030 and another $250 to assemble the rotating and balancing it. You will want to add $150+ to get new rod and main bearings. It will also cost you some to have the crank polished and prepped for the new bearings. If you have them assemble the whole short block - add a little more. $80 for ARP rod bolts. GM head bolts are under $40 shipped from SDPC. Cometic head gaskets are more than the GM stuff, around $200. Add another $100 for all the other misc gaskets. Throw in $75+ for a better timing chain. This is all to run stock crank and rods and use stock GM head bolts. Many people will suggest you upgrade the rods as well to support that much power. Better rods will run you a little under $700. Think about ARP head studs too ($200). This is also the right time to install a cam and springs.