hunterbohanan23

that’s exactly what i’m going to do. work has just been hectic for me so i don’t have any time off currently that works with the exhaust shop. i even thought about a little bigger size of tips but i’ll probably leave them

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Mine doesn't hit the crossmember at all but still sounds like a small leak, and I've done as much as I can for the leaks so I think it's just that header sound at this point on mine. The aluminum foil trick did a pretty good job at sealing the joints. I want to weld mine but at the same time hate the idea of it not being serviceable and having to cut it apart if I need to move or change something. I need flanges but having them done is pretty expensive. So f it, I'll live with mine the way it is.

Bgbldodge

To me having it welded is no different than the stock y-pipe in terms of serviceability. I doubt you'd be able to separate that section without pulling both sides off the headers anyways. That's the only spot I have a peak I can't seal so it's getting welded this weekend.

hunterbohanan23

For mine on the curved section from driver header that connects to crossmember I used a small bead (definitely didn't cake it on) of copper RTV and these clamps and they worked out great. No leaks. I'm checking everything over later today so I'll post an update. These are the clamps I used as well

silentbravo

iTrader: (1)

Have a link to that SE dyno video?

hunterbohanan23

i’ll try to find it. it was done on a 99-06 truck i believe. which means, the gains are better for 14+ with how much better the 5.3 is now

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I can unbolt the stock Y pipe, can't unbolt a welded one.

With stock if I need the manifolds out of the way I can move them, with non welded I can move the headers around a bit. With them welded I can't do **** without cutting it.

I got my leaks down to basically none with the foil wrap. I'm pretty sure the noise I hear now is just header noise and it's not bad at all. In other words.. it's so much better than it used to be that I'm satisfied and probably won't do anything more to it. But welding it all up is always in the back of my mind.

I should have slapped that copper stuff on mine but at the time I thought it would just blow out over time now I keep hearing more and more good stuff about it. I also used band clamps but the flat ones instead of the stepped kind like you have. My exhaust buddy said he's had better luck with the flat ones because the metal is somewhat soft and conforms to the shape of the pipe.

It's in a thread posted up by them, I'll try to find it.

Agreed, the more power the more airflow there is that's being restricted

hunterbohanan23

update: little more drone over time. still not ridiculous but i think it was from e85. i have some 91 back in it and drove 45 mins to work and didn’t notice it as bad. didn’t have much time to check over clamps but I will next weekend.

L86 manifold and throttle body are on the way also

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Posted the wrong part of the post. Here is the right part

Added 2/18/16:

Ok, thought you guys would enjoy some actual dyno numbers of the true dual exhaust.

Vehicle:
-2008 Sierra Crew Cab 4x4
-6.0L Engine (Stock Bottom End & Heads)
-228 Camshaft
-Our 1 7/8" Longtube headers
-Stock 3" Cat-Back w/Magnaflow muffler welded in.

1100MD Mustang dyno:
Stock Cat-Back w/Magnaflow Muffler
-343rwhp
-331rwtq

Our 3" True Dual Exhaust
-367rwhp
-350rwtq

Gain: 24rwhp/19rwtq

No other changes were made to the vehicle besides the true exhaust swap. Headers were already installed. The thing we were most surprised with was the torque gain across the board. It didn't loose any bottom end. The larger 3" exhaust actually gained torque across the board.

hunterbohanan23

except it’s all stainless now. that was the prototype