(Solo) Fuel Pump Replacement
#1
So I decided to write this for those of you looking to swap out your fuel pump, but have no one to assist. You can do it by yourself be removing (or should I say lifting) the bed. I am no buff person, I am average build (couch potato). If you are unsure of your lifting abilities, recruit a friends assistance.
See post 3 and 4 below for images.
Tools needed:
1 Jack Stand
18mm socket
5" extension (at least)
1/2" Drive Ratchet (Impact wrench makes it quicker)
T25 Torx bit
Small Flat Blade screwdriver
Medium Flat Blade screwdriver
Hammer or Mallet
Needle Nose Pliers
*If you have to upgrade to the new flat 4-pin connector:
Crimp Pliers
Wire Stripper
Wire Cutter
Heat Gun (or flame starter or matches)
Electrical tape
I have a 2002 1500HD which recently had a fuel pump failure. I had a friend of mine source me an AC-Delco pump. I went ahead and unplugged the battery then removed the 8 18mm bolts holding the bed down to the frame. There are two in front and two behind the axle on each side. You will need to use the extensions to reach some of them through the frame rails. Then unplug the tail light harnesses (SEE FIGURE 3). Undo the T25 torx bits and plastic snap from the fuel filler neck. At this point I basically dead lifted the driver's side of my bed and secured two jack stands between the bed and the frame rail (SEE FIGURE 2 and 4). One jack stand would also work, but I was being very cautious. I undid the fuel connections, you may need to use the needle nose pliers for the center line, then disconnected the pressure sensor and the electrical connector from the fuel pump assembly (SEE FIGURE 1). As you can see, my truck still had the old style connector (SEE FIGURE 6). Which from my research is known to be suspect and may cause a short which can melt the connector and result in loss of power to the pump. My AC-Delco pump came with a replacement harness that needed to be spliced in to replace the OE square connector (SEE FIGURE 7). I undid the two wire loom retainers to give me more room to work on them away from under the truck bed. I installed the pump and transferred over the retaining ring from the old pump, then using the medium size screwdriver and a hammer, I tightened down the ring (SEE FIGURE 5). Use plenty of force here. I had to also transfered two fuel connector retainers from the old pump to the new pump, you can remove these by using the small screwdriver, be cautious when doing this. I secured the lines to the new pump and spliced in the new connector (SEE FIGURE 8). I reconnected the battery and tested the new pump. It fired right up! So I then lifted the side of the bed and removed my jack stands and secured the filler neck and tail light harnesses. I then attach one corner bolt to the bed and then lined up the opposing corner bolt and secured all eight bolts down. I could have used the alignment holes for the bed (SEE FIGURE 9), but my truck is beat up and it lined up pretty good as is.
Hope this helps someone looking to replace or upgrade a fuel pump, since I did not find a good write up on this.
See post 3 and 4 below for images.
Tools needed:
1 Jack Stand
18mm socket
5" extension (at least)
1/2" Drive Ratchet (Impact wrench makes it quicker)
T25 Torx bit
Small Flat Blade screwdriver
Medium Flat Blade screwdriver
Hammer or Mallet
Needle Nose Pliers
*If you have to upgrade to the new flat 4-pin connector:
Crimp Pliers
Wire Stripper
Wire Cutter
Heat Gun (or flame starter or matches)
Electrical tape
I have a 2002 1500HD which recently had a fuel pump failure. I had a friend of mine source me an AC-Delco pump. I went ahead and unplugged the battery then removed the 8 18mm bolts holding the bed down to the frame. There are two in front and two behind the axle on each side. You will need to use the extensions to reach some of them through the frame rails. Then unplug the tail light harnesses (SEE FIGURE 3). Undo the T25 torx bits and plastic snap from the fuel filler neck. At this point I basically dead lifted the driver's side of my bed and secured two jack stands between the bed and the frame rail (SEE FIGURE 2 and 4). One jack stand would also work, but I was being very cautious. I undid the fuel connections, you may need to use the needle nose pliers for the center line, then disconnected the pressure sensor and the electrical connector from the fuel pump assembly (SEE FIGURE 1). As you can see, my truck still had the old style connector (SEE FIGURE 6). Which from my research is known to be suspect and may cause a short which can melt the connector and result in loss of power to the pump. My AC-Delco pump came with a replacement harness that needed to be spliced in to replace the OE square connector (SEE FIGURE 7). I undid the two wire loom retainers to give me more room to work on them away from under the truck bed. I installed the pump and transferred over the retaining ring from the old pump, then using the medium size screwdriver and a hammer, I tightened down the ring (SEE FIGURE 5). Use plenty of force here. I had to also transfered two fuel connector retainers from the old pump to the new pump, you can remove these by using the small screwdriver, be cautious when doing this. I secured the lines to the new pump and spliced in the new connector (SEE FIGURE 8). I reconnected the battery and tested the new pump. It fired right up! So I then lifted the side of the bed and removed my jack stands and secured the filler neck and tail light harnesses. I then attach one corner bolt to the bed and then lined up the opposing corner bolt and secured all eight bolts down. I could have used the alignment holes for the bed (SEE FIGURE 9), but my truck is beat up and it lined up pretty good as is.
Hope this helps someone looking to replace or upgrade a fuel pump, since I did not find a good write up on this.
Last edited by 12secSS; Jan 1, 2009 at 11:28 PM. Reason: attached pictures, links did not work
#6
Yeah, my inspiration came from doing it at home and not having my engine hoist to lift the bed. A buddy barrowed it and I needed my truck to bring it back. 
By the way, I did this at night in my driveway on New Years Eve and was done in about one hour total time.

By the way, I did this at night in my driveway on New Years Eve and was done in about one hour total time.
Trending Topics
#8
Did you remove the rear bumper??? Did you take any precautions to protect the paint when lifting the bed up???
I would like to add some tips If you dont mine...
I like to clean the top of the tank off were the pump goes. You don't want the dirt in your tank...
When installing the new pump a little grease on the new seal will help when reinstalling the lock ring...
I would like to add some tips If you dont mine...
I like to clean the top of the tank off were the pump goes. You don't want the dirt in your tank...
When installing the new pump a little grease on the new seal will help when reinstalling the lock ring...
#9
Droping the tank from the bottom on a hoist, I can swap a pump in 20 or less. 30 If I have to cut and splice the wires... I am so lazy now I take things to work to use the lift or I use the lift next door to the shop I work at... The only time I crawl around on my back any more is at The Junk yard wich is way more often then Having to work on my own vehicals...
#10
Did you remove the rear bumper??? Did you take any precautions to protect the paint when lifting the bed up???
I would like to add some tips If you dont mine...
I like to clean the top of the tank off were the pump goes. You don't want the dirt in your tank...
When installing the new pump a little grease on the new seal will help when reinstalling the lock ring...
I would like to add some tips If you dont mine...
I like to clean the top of the tank off were the pump goes. You don't want the dirt in your tank...
When installing the new pump a little grease on the new seal will help when reinstalling the lock ring...
I was thinking of using some towels between the bed and the bumper, which I did not remove.Please, add any usefull tips that may help others. Yes, I cleaned the top of the fuel pump assembly before I took off the retaining ring. I also used some grease on the ring to help it slide around when I tightened it.

Not bad... But that sucks having to do it at night and not having your engine lift.... do you have that bed attachment to use with your engine hoist???
Droping the tank from the bottom on a hoist, I can swap a pump in 20 or less. 30 If I have to cut and splice the wires... I am so lazy now I take things to work to use the lift or I use the lift next door to the shop I work at... The only time I crawl around on my back any more is at The Junk yard wich is way more often then Having to work on my own vehicals...
Droping the tank from the bottom on a hoist, I can swap a pump in 20 or less. 30 If I have to cut and splice the wires... I am so lazy now I take things to work to use the lift or I use the lift next door to the shop I work at... The only time I crawl around on my back any more is at The Junk yard wich is way more often then Having to work on my own vehicals...

Considering it was my first time on these trucks, I thought it was very easy and I did good time. I am used to swapping pumps on F-Bodies (drop the muffler, axle and tank!
I am spoiled as well, we have free use of our R&D shop at work (Lift, fab shop, dynos).
I am still young enough to enjoy a nice ciesta under my cars.







