I picked up a book today, and I must say it is the best mod I could have ever picked up,
MONEY WELL SPENT. $15.98
the book is
How to build High-Performance
Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's
just to share a little of what I learned.

best non supercharged block
LQ9 10.08: 1
best supercharged block
LQ4 9.41: 1

the stock crank and rods can hold up to 550 hp or less, they do not need to be replaced with forged parts, the only after market part needed is a set of rod bolts that are stronger then factory.
the cast pistons while good can only handle so much starting with low to high on the 6.0 block are as such LS6 basic stock, LQ4 made with better materials, LQ9 has copper added to increase strength and the piston is coated to level heat.
better then the LQ9 is a forged piston and is really the only forged part needed for the 550 hp motor.

LS6 valve springs made for the 405 hp LS6 years 02 and 04 bee hive shape are made in 2 different places, Germany and the US, the US version is yellow, made by the standard system it can handle a max lift of .550 lift, the German version is yellow, made by the metric system and can handle a max lift of .570, comp cams makes the same bee hive spring and it can handle a max lift of .600 the rest of the specs on these 3 valve springs are very close to the same.

moding the maf, mass air flow sensor,
the screen is used to straighten the air coming into it to minimize false airflow readings.
on LS1 vehicles with straight intakes the screen is not required. ( factory 02 Z06 does not have one) on trucks where the air tube approaches the maf from the side, the screen should be left in unless you're willing to make changes to the calibration to account for the new readings.

best for last SUPERCHARGED 6.6 AKA 408.
parts needed.
iron block 6.6 aka 408 ci
procharger D1SC centrifugal supercharger kit ( just one of the kits that was used)
Gm LS6 type intake
Forged full Dish Pistons 9.0:1
Gm LS6 CNC heads with 2.02/ 1.60 Valves
ARP 1/2 inch head studs
Comp Cams Camshaft ( W 2 W grind)
Comp springs ( pn 266618 )
SLP 1-7/8 Primary headers and full exhaust
Modified stock controller or a F.A.S.T.
Aftermarket fuel regulator that will up pressure to 80 psi
stock oil pump, ported with a higher pressure pop off spring.
BBK 85 mm MAF sensor or LS6 85 mm Maf sensor
42 lbs fuel injectors
max super charger boost of 11.5
gas used 100 oct

according to the book a dyno run should yield
781 torque at 4900 rpms
826 hp at 6300 rpms

it was later upgraded with two parts for the power it generated with a Oliver billet 6-1/8 steel rods and a Lunati 4.000-inch forged crank.

 

Thanks for writing that all out.

I swear someone from LS1Tech wrote that though because it's all stuf I've read here hahaha

 

I think the stock crank can handle a little more that 550hp.

 

It's definately worth the $16. Lots of good info, not just on how to work on them, but also about the development of the GenIII.

 

where is it that you get this book?

 

Yeah, I read most of this book sitting at Barnes & Noble drinking Startbuck. I'm pretty much with you, most of what they have in there I already knew from Tech. lol. But some of it was pretty interesting stuff though. I would definitely say its a good book.

 

I am assuming this is from the one by Will Hanzel. There is another one, LS1/LS6 Performance by Chris Endres that is pretty good as well. I have both of them and I have to say the How to Build... book has much more info about the truck motors in it. Just be careful, not everything you read in a book is gospel.

 

So if my Denali ('02) is the LQ4 block (thank god) and a new Silverado SS is an LQ9 block, what is a "regular" 6.0 considered? One that might be in a 2500HD? I'm curious about my actual compression. Do I have the lower compression motor? How much lower is the "regular" 6.0?

 

"LR4" 4.8 9.5:1
"LM7" 5.3 9.5:1
"LQ4" 6.0 9.4:1
"LQ9" 6.0 HO 10.1:1

LQ4 is an LQ4 no matter what vehicle it comes in. Just the years very slightly. But with the LQ9 you get rods that are quite a bit thicker. LQ9 Luv 4Eva

 

Interesting... Then what do they do to the Denali to get all the extra power out of it over something like a 2500 with the 6.0? Factory ratings are about 25hp more, but I saw 280hp at the wheels (all-wheel-drive) and have seen most of the other 6.0's putting out around 245-255 at the wheels (rear). All dyno's are different of course, but it seems to be pretty common.