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returnless fuel system swap

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Old May 17, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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Default returnless fuel system swap

Is it possible to swap to a returnless fuel system? Is it worth it? I have the ls1 intake on my truck now and I think I can get normal ls1 fuel rails free. I am planning to put one or two 255's in the fuel tank soon, and was thinking while I was in there maybe I could modify the system to returnless... Just a thought. They want a fortune for the 1997 ls1 C5 fuel rail and regulator. I wonder if the truck fuel rails support more or less hp? Does those big logs help or hurt us? Thanks
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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Why exactly are you wanting to do returnless? Return is better in just about any case.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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If you use an f-body or vette regulator, you'll need to at least rescale your IFR table, because they're not boost referenced. For the ultimate in cleanliness, I would just buy some aftermarket aluminum rails, and go from there. I think the truck's factory rails actually flow pretty well save for the cross over tube. Head over to ls1tech, there's lots of info on what guys are doing when the stock lines and rails just aren't enough.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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Ok, Thanks for the info I didn't know that return is better, I don't want to retune for the rails, I think I will look at ls1tech to see what they are doing. Thanks again.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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I think around 650-700rwhp they actually need to upgrade their stock fuel lines. I'm not sure if they are the same dia. as ours, but I'm willing to bet they are. What they'll do is make the factory supply the new return and just run a new, bigger supply line. Changing the rails won't make you have the change the IFR, but changing the regulator will. You can go with an aftermarket set of rails and a boost referenced regulator and in theory your IFR shouldn't need to be changed.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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sounds good, I do not want to turn the boost any higher, I just want to finish the run. I had to let out early because of the lean condition. I should be below the 650-700 mark.. I hope! I think Rick at synergy might of figured out why I am not holding my boost presure (leaks about3-4psi during the run) If I can run the 20psi the hole run and not blead the boost off, I would have reached my gaol.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Thanks again
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TURBO8
Thanks again
Keep us posted as to why you are bleeding boost. Is your WG referenced from the manifold? What is he thinking it could be? Im thinking of copying your setup while my 370 is being built and seeing how much the 5.3 can take.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Yeah! he said to change my reference point to see if I noticed any difference. I thinnk you should try a turbo cam and maybe some head work, and you would do better. Good luck! I copied FL8 and gave it alittle more boost.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TURBO8
Yeah! he said to change my reference point to see if I noticed any difference. I thinnk you should try a turbo cam and maybe some head work, and you would do better. Good luck! I copied FL8 and gave it alittle more boost.
I have a turbo cam. I was just going to leave the 212/218 in the 5.3 until I can get around to the motor swap...when my arm heals. The 5.3 would just be a way to pass the time.
I know most issues like yours are caused by not referencing the manifold. I thought you already tried that. Im sure that will solve your problem. I plan to reference the wastegate, boost controller, and BOV from manifold. The boost gauge and meth from the brake booster. How are all of yours referenced now?
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