alright, this may sound like a noob question, but how do you install ASP alternator and crank pulley? i dont have any special tools but i was hoping to do this myself as the kits comes with both pulleys and serp and a/c belt. include how to get the belt on and tight too please. thanks.
-Noob

 

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=0

 

PM sent.

 

...thats nice but there is not write up on it? just a picture of two different pulleys.

 

you will need a 1/2" drive ratchet with (if im not mistaken) a 24mm socket and 2 1/2" extension, 3-4 ft cheater pipe (i think i used the extra handle off of my hydrualic floor jack. ) 3 jaw puller ( i like the crystler style puller that you rent from autozone for 60 bucks), A propane or acetylene torch, prybar.

we need to go ahead and do a write up about this cuz of idiots like myself starting out have no clue how to do it properly. Some end up with a 2X4 and a BFH beating the pulley on! I tried the torch method this past weekend and much to me and Colby's surprise, it slid on and bottomed out!!!!! that was very nice. If im not mistaken i think you have to stop the motor from moving via a prybar between the torque converter and the flywheel for the ASP pulley because it doesnt have the holes to put the prybar like the stocker. (this is what i was told so dont quote me on it)

 

The ASP pulley doesnt have the holes to put a pry bar through to stop it from turning while re-tightening the bolt but you can use your old big serpentine belt. Wrap it around the groove for it on the ASP pulley, use a pair of vice-grips to crimp the belt together where it is nice and tight 360*s around the pulley, then tie the excess to the frame or another place you deem suitable and tighten the bolt like there is no tomorrow. I never use the angles or ft-lbs rating just tighten it as mucha syou can half the time when I tried to tighten it to 250 ft-lbs I couldnt get it there nor anyone else. Otherwise you are going to have to pull the starter and block the flexplate.

 

That's how I had mine installed. White1 hooked me up with that... slides right on, bottom's out, and yes, a pry bar b/t the TC and flexplate will stop the assembly from turning while you torque the crank bolt. With this method, there's no need for a long-bolt.

 

just use a 3/4 inch impact no need to herniate urself with a cheater bar.... i used a flywheel holder for an 87 honda accord to hold the flexplate from turning. it fit through the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing. heat the snout on the asp and slide it on till it bottoms out. the tensioners are spring loaded. there is no tightening. a little tip on the ac belt..... put the belt on the backside of the crank pulley between the engine and the pulley, then put the belt on the compressor pulley, and put the belt on the crank pulley. much easier.... the autozon three **** pullers suck... it took me 4 hours of fighting with that thing to get the stock pulley off

 

damn, I thought awhile back I saw a wrtie up on there about that. Hmmm, sorry to give a link of no help guys!

 

DAMN YOU!



I tell you what, ill do a writeup on it as soon as i get my ASP pulley from my buddy.