yeh i like to seperate my mods a month or so at a time and the next thing il get will be a tt3200. I still need some more info on the parts for the heads like i said in my last post.

 

I did the same thing except i just had them milled .045 and had a valve job done. I have 2 sets of stock 5.3 heads in the classifieds if you want a set, shoot me a PM.

 

What is meant by a valve job. Just reseal them or make them bigger?
Also did you use stock head gaskets with the mill job. I am thinking of milling my 706 heads, but need to know how much.

 

I got an "all angle valvejob" which means that the valve is seated fully at all angles where the valve meets the head.(this is what i gathered from Mr. DestinE who did my headwork. Maybe he will jump in and help me here) Its supposed to seal the valve better and supposed to flow 10-15% better than stock. By taking material off of the valve and the landing itself it will actually sink your valves deeper in your heads so your vavlesprings will have to be blueprinted for each vavle. (shimmed so all the springheights are set correctly.)

I wanted to run a larger cam with my setup so i kept milling to .045" (was gonna go .055" but a guy running a 224/224 585 108ICL 112LSA with .055" milling had REALLY tight ptov clearance.) I used stock thickness, felpro head gaskets as they were like 37 bucks shipped to my door versus the $150 for cometics. Im running a 10.4 SCR with a 8.4 DCR.

 

Hey I'm "That Guy"

 

Are only the intake valves changed to 2.00" or do the exhaust valves have to be changed too to like 1.60"???? After milling the heads to say 0.35" would 7.400" pushrods be enough or would they have to be changed also???. I am running the 220/220 114 cam with 7.400" pushrods....Getting the itch to work the heads some.

 

I have 1.55 exhaust valves. 7.4 are probably going to be to long. You need to measure.

 

Yes you are!.

La Cuerva you need to find the base circle of your cam, then run the calculator on tech to get your proper pushrod length. I am running a 7.4" with .045 milled off but then again i have a 1.42 base circle.

 

Thanks. I'll be looking into it.

 

Well I will jump in and give it a shot...
Mind you guys, I can give you some ideas..... Since I no longer have the flowbench I cannot give you ideas on flowrates but a lite clean up never hurts.
On the 5.3 heads with the stock diameter you cannot open up the bowl any as GM did not leave a lot on the table there, What I like to do is a full radius valve job, placing the seat contact area as close to the edge as possible. And FarmerBeau is correct about sinking the valves with the valve job, unless the heads have a severe case of coreshift, only a small amount of material will be removed from the seats. I use a guage while I am cutting the seats to keep the seats and combustion chamber CCs uniform. The seats are cut with a carbide cutter that cuts all the angles at one time ( on stock valve jobs we use a three angle cutter, on the Comp Valve Jobs we use a cutter with a full radius with the seat angle the only straight angle on the cutter... these cutters can be obtained in many varieties of radii to suit the application. In fact custom cutters are made upon demand for anyone who has experimented on the flowbench for any application.... these cutter profiles remain proprietary to that specific individual ).
The Backside of the 5.3 heads are made like a funnel and are necked down quite a bit and can be opened up with larger valves.. but you guys know what valves can be installed..
I would say as a general rule, aftermarket heads from a reputalble company will be superior to what I can offer ( as I no longer have the flowbench ). If you do not need the absolute in flow then a good valve job as I describe above will deliver better flow at a much lower price... Do make sure that your machinist is using a Sunnen or Serdi Head shop for the valve job, the old stone method just does not cut it...

TJ