Overheating Ss
Nov 21, 2004 | 01:58 PM
#21
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From: BERRIEN CENTER,MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by Flyer
When I had my z71 (much heavier truck) it would never stay at the 160* even with e-fans blowing at full speed all the time. On my much smaller new truck, the temp will stay at 175 until the AC kicks on, then its up to 210'ish. That's with the bigger radiator, e-fans and a custom harness, and the 160* thermo.
Snake Eater might be on to something though ... I would take a look at the timing chain and see if it's still lined up right.
You didn't by chance cap those vent hoses off that are at the front of the heads, that has a small metal hose going between the heads and a rubber hose going to the throttle body, to the radiator did you? It's OK to bypass the radiator, but the hose still need to connect the vents and the radiator.
Snake Eater might be on to something though ... I would take a look at the timing chain and see if it's still lined up right.
You didn't by chance cap those vent hoses off that are at the front of the heads, that has a small metal hose going between the heads and a rubber hose going to the throttle body, to the radiator did you? It's OK to bypass the radiator, but the hose still need to connect the vents and the radiator.
No I didn't cap any of the vent hoses off. All of that stuff is how it was from the factory. One quick question for ya. Is there an install tool for the crank pulley because when I put mine back on before it went on harder than hell.
Nov 21, 2004 | 02:02 PM
#22
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From: BERRIEN CENTER,MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by 02denali
hey this may sound stupid but check it out real quick. there is a little hose that runs from the tb to the pass side valve cover. is it on both ends. i have seen this hose cause wierd things like this. check it see. pull on it and reinstall it to make sure.
hey thanks I will check that out real quick.
Nov 21, 2004 | 02:07 PM
#23
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From: BERRIEN CENTER,MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by Snake Eater
I've seen this before. Did you also change your timing chain? With much stiffer springs there is alot more stress on the chain and the stock one tends to stretch, and not totaly uncommon to jump a tooth or two. So what i think it is, is when you swapped to the big springs your timing jumped a tooth or two and is running retarded. Anytime you retard your cam and timing like that an engine tends to run much warmer. It'll only take about two hours to go yank the cover and look.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
Nov 21, 2004 | 07:47 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Snake Eater
I've seen this before. Did you also change your timing chain? With much stiffer springs there is alot more stress on the chain and the stock one tends to stretch, and not totaly uncommon to jump a tooth or two. So what i think it is, is when you swapped to the big springs your timing jumped a tooth or two and is running retarded. Anytime you retard your cam and timing like that an engine tends to run much warmer. It'll only take about two hours to go yank the cover and look.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
Philip S.
Nov 21, 2004 | 07:55 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Snake Eater
I've seen this before. Did you also change your timing chain? With much stiffer springs there is alot more stress on the chain and the stock one tends to stretch, and not totaly uncommon to jump a tooth or two. So what i think it is, is when you swapped to the big springs your timing jumped a tooth or two and is running retarded. Anytime you retard your cam and timing like that an engine tends to run much warmer. It'll only take about two hours to go yank the cover and look.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
Philip S.
Nov 21, 2004 | 09:33 PM
#26
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From: BERRIEN CENTER,MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by Snake Eater
I've seen this before. Did you also change your timing chain? With much stiffer springs there is alot more stress on the chain and the stock one tends to stretch, and not totaly uncommon to jump a tooth or two. So what i think it is, is when you swapped to the big springs your timing jumped a tooth or two and is running retarded. Anytime you retard your cam and timing like that an engine tends to run much warmer. It'll only take about two hours to go yank the cover and look.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
BTW, if it did jump teeth retarded a logging program will still be seeing the same timing.
Nov 22, 2004 | 06:51 AM
#27
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From: Katy, TX
Not necisarily.(i know i messed that spelling up)
If its 4* retarded or so it would run fine, but be very weak on the low end, and have all the hard pulling power in the high rpms.
Me and some friends built up an old 67' Stepside with a 327 and some radical heads. We used the stock timing chain that was 30 years old on it along with a circle track cam another buddy gave us. Every time we would set the timing and take it out for a spin it would jump teeth retarded. It did it half a dozen times before we figured what was causing it.(we were pretty young and dumb then.)
Anyway, new chain fixed our problems for a whole month. Till the cam lobes rounded off. LOL
If its 4* retarded or so it would run fine, but be very weak on the low end, and have all the hard pulling power in the high rpms.
Me and some friends built up an old 67' Stepside with a 327 and some radical heads. We used the stock timing chain that was 30 years old on it along with a circle track cam another buddy gave us. Every time we would set the timing and take it out for a spin it would jump teeth retarded. It did it half a dozen times before we figured what was causing it.(we were pretty young and dumb then.)
Anyway, new chain fixed our problems for a whole month. Till the cam lobes rounded off. LOL
Nov 22, 2004 | 08:04 AM
#28
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From: Central, MA
Is this 210 indicated on the gauge?
What does the gauge read when you turn the key on, engine dead cold, without starting it? It shoud 'zero' in on the 100 mark. If it doesn't, then the needle is installed incorrectly and it's giving a false reading.
210 is definitely not overheating though... I have my e-fans set to turn on at 212*F.
My needle normally reads just to the left of the center mark. I don't even remember what it says. 200*F?
If you think the gauge is accurate...
Any chance you got your heater core hoses swapped when you installed the cam? (Would that matter, anyone?)
What does the gauge read when you turn the key on, engine dead cold, without starting it? It shoud 'zero' in on the 100 mark. If it doesn't, then the needle is installed incorrectly and it's giving a false reading.
210 is definitely not overheating though... I have my e-fans set to turn on at 212*F.
My needle normally reads just to the left of the center mark. I don't even remember what it says. 200*F?
If you think the gauge is accurate...
Any chance you got your heater core hoses swapped when you installed the cam? (Would that matter, anyone?)
Nov 22, 2004 | 08:06 AM
#29
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From: Central, MA
Originally Posted by KLUG'S SS
One quick question for ya. Is there an install tool for the crank pulley because when I put mine back on before it went on harder than hell.
Heating the inside of the crank pulley also helps slide it on...
Nov 22, 2004 | 02:42 PM
#30
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From: BERRIEN CENTER,MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by marc_w
Is this 210 indicated on the gauge?
What does the gauge read when you turn the key on, engine dead cold, without starting it? It shoud 'zero' in on the 100 mark. If it doesn't, then the needle is installed incorrectly and it's giving a false reading.
210 is definitely not overheating though... I have my e-fans set to turn on at 212*F.
My needle normally reads just to the left of the center mark. I don't even remember what it says. 200*F?
If you think the gauge is accurate...
Any chance you got your heater core hoses swapped when you installed the cam? (Would that matter, anyone?)
What does the gauge read when you turn the key on, engine dead cold, without starting it? It shoud 'zero' in on the 100 mark. If it doesn't, then the needle is installed incorrectly and it's giving a false reading.
210 is definitely not overheating though... I have my e-fans set to turn on at 212*F.
My needle normally reads just to the left of the center mark. I don't even remember what it says. 200*F?
If you think the gauge is accurate...
Any chance you got your heater core hoses swapped when you installed the cam? (Would that matter, anyone?)
Yeah that would be fine if it stayed at 210 or a hair under but when I am getting on it real good it likes to go well over 210. When it is cold the needle does set all the way down. A scan tool plugged into the computer read that is getting to like 220 or 230 and with a 160 stat something is definitely wrong.
